40-year-old Fortune

We last saw DaRC and Ro Ro a few weeks ago before they jetted off, and they're about to do that again for a European tour, so we arranged to meet up for a couple of bottles. I asked for a place with decent glassware and decanters, where corkage wouldn't break the bank and, naturally, air conditioned. The decision was made to book us into the Fortune Room (幸運閣) at the Hong Kong Jockey Club, a place I haven't been back to in more than a decade.

This was a rare opportunity for me to completely step back from ordering. In fact, I didn't even look at the menu. At all. Members who know the menu well call the shots.

Crispy Bombay duck fish • fermented tofu (醬豆腐炸九肚魚) - thicker batter than expected, and the batter also had more flavor thanks to the fermented tofu.

Roasted suckling pig roulade • glutinous rice (糯米釀乳豬) - YEAH, BABY! I looooove roast suckling pig, and it's even better when they've been stuffed.

Just look at the luscious curves of the crackling! Crispy on the outer surface but still soft and fatty inside. The glutinous rice was really tasty, especially with the diced preserved sausage mixed in. I would have loved to have a second piece... together with the citrus sauce.

Razor clam • sakura shrimp • Chinese chive (韮香金鈎蟶子皇) - razor clams are generally a good idea, and these were pretty big.

They've sprinkled a bunch of tasty, deep-fried sakura shrimp on top, and there were also pickled mustard stem (甜酸菜) whose flavors were on the sweet side. We've also got some chrysanthemum. Very, very delicious.

Baked spotted garoupa • peppercorn • shallots (鮮胡椒瓦甑焗東星斑) - this definitely looked very impressive in the clay pot... and that's gotta be some big garoupa, coz them fillets were pretty damn THICC!

There was plenty of ground pepper here, and it was definitely needed, since the fish was a little on the 'fishy' side. Still pretty tasty, though!

I was flabbergasted when this was presented at our table. Didn't we order CHICKEN?! Why is there a giant birthday bun (壽桃)???

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So the salt crust had to be taken apart to get the contents out, and it was done skillfully and rather elegantly.

Fortune salt-baked chicken (珍瑞鹽焗雞) - this was definitely nice and moist, thanks to having been wrapped on lotus leaves.

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But there was also a second part to our dish... also involving tableside service.

Chicken gizzard and coriander fried rice (堂弄雞珍香荽炒飯) - this was definitely very tasty with all the gizzard, coriander, and egg white.

Leafy amaranth • supreme broth (上湯莧菜)

Red bean cream • 30-year aged tangerine zest (三十年陳皮紅豆沙) - I needed some dessert, and I always relish the chance to enjoy the fragrance from aged tangerine peel.

We didn't go too crazy with the wines tonight, but we did have a theme.

2021 Chacra Chardonnay - a little riper on the palate than expected, but there's still decent acidity on the palate and also on the finish.

1984 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve - plenty of vanilla on the nose, but there was also a hint of dust so not the cleanest. Also got notes of leather, and the fruit seemed lightly stewed. Not bad, but also not so fresh and lively.

1984 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - this was fresher in terms of condition, with plenty of mint, and also a little green pepper like shishito. More concentration on the palate.

A pretty nice way to spend a Sunday evening. Glad to finally have the opportunity to come back after all these years.