March 2, 2026

Flaming sticks

I don't normally get to eat much yakitori (焼き鳥), since Foursheets is very picky about where she will eat chicken. She also doesn't eat chicken offal, and serious yakitori joints pride themselves on their offerings of rare chicken parts. So while lots of people in Hong Kong have been going gaga over Torikaze (鳥かぜ) - the new, local outpost of famed Torishiki (鳥しき) - I've kinda just let the hype pass by. I wasn't too fussed, and happy to let people fight over these precious seats.

B Bestie finally decided that it was time for me to check the place out, and very kindly let me join a group of ladies tonight. We were seated in the middle of the U-shaped counter for the first seating, with a good view of both the grills sitting behind the glass wall.

It's a prix fixe menu but there were plenty of options for add-ons, with a choice of 14 chicken parts as well as 10 additional non-chicken alternatives - 9 of which are vegetarian. So potentially this could be a more balanced meal, except we were limited to just 3 additional items due to time constraints... or so B Bestie claimed.

It was interesting to me that, at least during the second half of the meal, head chef Matsui Ryo (松井亮) was focused on grilling the vegetables instead of chicken. I take that as a sign of the importance they place on the vegetarian options on their menu.

Chicken mousse, pickle red carrots and radish, konbu jelly (紅白なます) - this was definitely an upgraded version of the classic pickled carrots and radish, with some purple carrots included.

The mousse made with chicken breast was, surprisingly, a little bitter. Thankfully the acidity in the pickle helped to balance things out. My problem, though, was that I wasn't sure whether it would be better to use chopsticks or the spoon... as either option presented its own difficulties.

Taro chicken soup (里芋のすり流す) - the thickened taro soup was kinda grainy, and made me warm and fuzzy after a few spoonfuls. The meatballs were garnished with canola flower (菜の花) and some yuzu zest for the fragrance.

The meatballs were made with chicken breast, and were pretty tender.

Oyster (ソリレス) - I love to order sot-y-laisse at yakitori joints, and this was very, very juicy... practically bursting with juices. The leeks (葱) were nicely grilled and came with tons of smoky flavor.

Fillet (ささみ) - much to my surprise, this was also very juicy, and also had good amount of smoky flavors. Much more well-seasoned than I expected.

Heart (ハツ) - I was somewhat surprised that hearts were included in the set and were not relegated to being an "add-on", but these were very bouncy and juicy.

Breast (抱き身) - good thing this had the skin on, and it was pretty good.

Brussel sprout (芽キャベツ) - with magurobushi (鮪節) shavings on top.

Sake kasu sour cream with black bean and fruit (酒粕サワークリーム) - a palate-cleanser in the middle of our meal.

Meatball (つくね) - this was made with bits of cartilage and, I suspect, some skin.

This was, of course, nice and bouncy... and so juicy it was literally dripping. Very nicely done.

Broccoli (ブロッコリー) - brushed with chicken fat and seasoned with salt and pepper. This was supposedly a signature, and I could certainly see why.

Shoulder (肩) - this was very nice, with fatty skin.

Shishito pepper (ししとう) - from Kochi Prefecture (高知県).

When we placed our orders for the 3 extra skewers, I decided to get 3 different types of grilled chicken skin.

Back skin (ペタ) - really thick with lots of fat, and a very bouncy texture. This was seasoned with more salt. I wondered whether this was close to the chicken ass...

Skin (皮) - this was very bouncy and tasty, but I was thinking that this would be crispy and crunchy as I placed my order.

Wing skin (手羽先皮) - this has the most bouncy texture, so I'm thinking that this was my favorite.

Wing (手羽先) - in comparison, the wings served in yakitori are generally small and less satisfying to me.

Burdock and lotus root clay pot rice (八尾若牛蒡と蓮根土鍋悟飯) - it's always a show when one is presented with the donabe gohan (土鍋御飯)...

Minced chicken was mixed in with the rice, and I love the flavors of burdock. Crunchy slices of lotus root add a different texture.

We've also got a cup of tasty chicken soup, where the fat on top congealed quickly as it cooled.

Milk ice cream, apple sauce (ミルクアイス、りんごソース) - this was kinda like apple pie à la mode. A simple dessert to finish our meal.

Isojiman Tokubetsu Honjozo Tokusen (磯自慢 特別本醸造特撰) - seimaibuai of 60%. Nose with a little rich rice starch with some banana notes. Definitely more dry on the palate, with sharper alcohol.

Very grateful to have had the chance to come and check this place out. It's glaringly obvious why this has been one of the hottest restaurants in town - with the prix fixe priced at just HKD 780 which, while it seems expensive by Japanese standards after translating into JPY, appears to be a steal for the Central crowd. The location also doesn't get much more "central", and as I said to B Bestie afterwards... "even billionaires appreciate good deals".

Maybe one of these days I'll come back with Foursheets and she can order a whole bunch of veggie sticks... but we'll need to take that second seating for sure.

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