September 14, 2026

Three 3 stars in France day 4: dinner and a show

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I was fortunate to be in Paris around the same time as Geruhage and Tomo-chan, because I really didn't have much planned for the days after Bordeaux. I thought I would take things easy and just meet up with a friend for a meal, but a month ago this friend told me that our mutual friends were in town, so I immediately asked to piggyback on whatever their program is. For our first meal together, we would check out the new location of restaurant they already know.

Maison Ruggieri Palais Royale has already gotten back a star after moving to the current premises, and given Chef Martino Ruggieri's pedigree and the fact that the old location had two macarons, we definitely had expectations. But truth be told, I should have gone to buy myself aome short-sleeve T-shirts from Uniqlo before coming to dinner. I was still wearing the long-sleeve tee I'd been wearing since this morning, and Paris was still well in the 20s even at night. The folding glass walls were open so that we had direct access to the garden inside Palais Royale, but this meant we were left without much air conditioning...

There are poems to match the dishes and menus, and the long tasting menu is named Letter from a Correspondent. I doubt Geruhage ever entertained the idea of taking A Short letter from a Correspondent... The menu lists dishes by their main ingredient, followed by a short poem from the chef's wife.

Zucchini with flower and watermelon "ham" - the zucchini came with a tarragon sauce, the flower was covered in a sauce made with cumin and tomato. The strips of dehydrated watermelon "jambon" were chewy and sweet.

Three 3 stars in France day 4: Bordeaux to Paris

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It's my last morning in Bordeaux, and thankfully I've chosen a train that doesn't depart too early. That meant I could still sit and enjoy breakfast on the patio at La Maison d'Estournel.

As usual, I picked up the viennoiserie...

Today I also grabbed a crêpe from the stack on the table, and spread some caramel and chocolate on top.

My driver from yesterday came to drive me to Gare Bordeaux Saint-Jean, and we had a good conversation along the way. But before we get into the city, I asked him to make a couple of stops so I could take better pictures in the warm, morning light. First stop was, of course, where I had dinner last night - Château Lafite-Rothschild.

September 13, 2026

Three 3 stars in France day 3: 100 years of Lafite-Rothschild

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Enfin, la pièce de résistance!

The main reason I flew all the way to France and planned this trip was tonight's dinner, which came at the joint invitation of Château Lafite-Rothschild and Caprice. Three years ago the Hairy Chevalier invited me to dinner at Château d'Yquem, and that was an amazing experience. Tonight we are back in Bordeaux, but a little further north in Pauillac.

Upon arriving at the château, we were received jointly by Antoine Granger and Victor Petiot. We got to chill on the lawn just outside with Champagne and canapés while we waited for everyone to arrive.

Three 3 stars in France day 3: les forts de Vauban

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It's Sunday morning in Bordeaux, and I'm up early because I have a long day ahead of me. After admiring the sun rising over the vineyards from my room at La Maison d'Estournel, I went downstairs to grab some breakfast before my journey this morning.

September 12, 2026

Three 3 stars in France day 2: a day in Saint-Estephe

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I'm off to Bordeaux today for the highlight of this trip, and this is the reason I chose to stay next to Gare de Montparnasse. I checked out early in the morning, rolled my suitcase downhill, and got inside the station looking for breakfast. My first choice was actually McDonald's, as I love to try local offerings everywhere I travel. But I didn't see anything interesting that was "French" on their menu, and that was a little strange.

I spotted a Yann Couvreur Cafe and knew this would be my breakfast spot. It's a no-brainer. I got myself a couple of viennoiseries and a chocolat chaud.

Croissant - absolutely nothing to complain about here.

Kouign amann - very crunchy from the sugar coating. Love it.

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