CANVAZ road trip day 2: 3 meals from 3 continents

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I woke up this morning after some broken sleep, and my friend Ducky very kindly drove us around to get some breakfast.  Neighbor Bakehouse apparently serves up some really good pastries, so I picked up a couple of items and brought them back to her place.

Their butter croissant was pretty good, but what really bowled me over was their everything croissant.  Imagine an "everything bagel"... except that it comes with layers of flaky pastry... and buttery goodness.  Take the butter croissant and add sesame seeds, poppy seeds, toasted onions... and add what seemed to be cream cheese on the inside of the croissant.  So freakin' good!  Those onions really pack a punch!  I wished I had bought 2 more of these...

CANVAZ road trip day 1: 80s music season

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After much trials and tribulations, an entire day of missed flights, airport diversions, and long immigration lines, I finally arrived in San Francisco about 8 hours later than originally scheduled.  I missed the opportunity to check out a food truck or a taqueria for lunch, but that didn't matter.  Upon arriving at my friend's apartment some 15 minutes before dinner time, I took a very quick shower while she helpfully ironed my crumpled dress shirt (something which she doesn't even do for her own clothes!).  After a short walk of a few blocks, I eventually arrived at my destination about 20 minutes late.

There was absolutely no way that I was going to miss dinner at Saison.  This was the first restaurant I booked when I started planning my trip just a month ago, and would certainly be the culinary apex of my entire trip.  This was the reason I re-routed my itinerary to arrive in LAX and connect to a domestic flight, instead of taking the next available flight to SFO... because I would have missed this dinner otherwise.  And I was so grateful that I took the 8:30 p.m. seating!

We were led to a table facing the kitchen, where my friend Ducky and I were seated side-by-side... rather intimately.  One of our neighbors looked vaguely familiar and we kinda figured he was a famous musician of some sort.  At the end of the evening, we found out that it was actually Kirk Hammett - the guitarist for Metallica.  What a soft-spoken gentlemen he turned out to be.

After checking our dietary restrictions, we were told that there would be about 15 courses coming our way.  We were both pretty hungry by now, and eagerly awaited for the food to arrive.

But my string of bad luck seemed to have continued even in San Francisco.  As I was going through my usual routine of setting white balance for my camera, something weird seemed to be happening.  Many of the pictures had dark shadows across part or even all of the frame, and it seemed to occur mostly when the camera was pointed at a downward angle.  I was never able to properly set white balance, and was pretty much frustrated the whole evening trying to get in a decent shot of each dish.

My last two meals in San Francisco

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Today's my last full day in San Francisco. Time for just two more proper meals here before heading home. As I have finally finished taking inventory of my wine collection here, I am left with a day of relaxation.

And what better way to start the day than having lunch at Boulevard, Nancy Oakes' place down by the Embarcadero? The restaurant seemed popular with the public, garnering high ratings with Zagat and is also the proud recipient of a Michelin star.

I started with a glass of 2007 Barrel 27 High on the Hog, a Rhone-blend with Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne. The wine was a bit cold so the nose was very light, with only a bit of oak and lemon. Sweet and hot on the palate with a bitter, long finish. Not very impressed.

I had a little trouble deciding on the starter, but in the end I settled on pan seared Monterey calamari - stuffed with jambalaya rice, crispy tentacles, lemon aioli, gumbo sauce. I like the idea of stuffed calamari, especially when there's a Cajun twist. I was not disappointed. The calamari was nicely pan-fried on the outside, with nice flavors of smoky sausage and peppers coming through. The gumbo sauce added a nice, subtle touch. The deep-fried tentacles were wonderful. Off to a good start.

The pan roasted local ling cod - wild rice & erbette chard, fondant orange cauliflower with herb bread crumbs, Sherry beurre blanc was also nicely done. The tender flesh had just enough flavor on the outside, and sits on a bed of yummy wild rice. The heavy flavor of the erbette chard stood out from the rice. The cauliflowers were interesting, as the topping is very similar to the herb sauce one finds in escargot Bourguignon.

I am stuffed and decide to pass on dessert. Good thing I was going to be walking around for the rest of the afternoon! But I'm real glad I was able to sample the creations by Nancy Oakes.

Dinner was a totally different experience altogether. At around 8pm I decided to head for dinner at Bistro Boudin, which is just around my hotel. I had passed by yesterday and know that it's part of a huge operation run by Boudin Bakery, and it got decent reviews on Zagat. I decided to try out a couple of seafood dishes while enjoying some of San Francisco's famous sourdough French bread.

I knew things weren't gonna be good right from the get-go. Despite the restaurant being less than half full, the woman at the reception told me that "only very large tables were available", and that I'd have to wait. She suggested that I sit at the bar and watch TV while I eat.  I initially thought that they had closed an entire section to make it easier on themselves, but found 2 diners sitting in a booth. I smile and agree to the suggestion, but I am upset at the treatment.  This got worse as a family of 4 walked in and was immediately seated at a table.

I'm at Fisherman's Wharf, so I go local and make it a Dungeness crab evening. Started wih Dungeness crab cake with roasted corn salad and whole grain mustard-lemongrass aioli. The crab cake was pretty big, and tasted alright. The addition of mustard was interesting. The corn salad was refreshing and provided a good balance to the savory crab.

Here we have another problem. Before I was finished with the crab cake, the waiter brought the main course over. He sensed that I was not quite happy, and took it back to the kitchen after I asked him to wait for 5 minutes. So the comments I saw on the Zagat's website are true - the service is all about rushing you through your meal and getting you out the door. My pasta was sent back to the kitchen, where the cook added a bit more sauce and sautéed it again. And it showed - the texture was off.

And what was it that I ordered? Why, it's the Dungeness crab “mac and cheese” - aged Vermont cheddar cheese, cream and freshly picked Dungeness crab. Well, "mac and cheese" is a bit of a misnomer, because they actually used rigatoni. The tubes were a bit too large for my taste. But the chunks of sweet crab meat were nice. Unfortunately the sauce was a bit dry thanks to being reheated.

The huge glass of 2005 Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc I got was way too cold, and showed nothing in the nose.

Yes, it is nice to be able to smell the bread baking downstairs. But would I go back to Boudin for mediocre food and poor service?

Dinner at Michael Mina

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Tonight I finally got around to dining at Michael Mina, a dinner that I missed on my last visit to San Francisco 2 years ago. It was a really wonderful experience on all counts, except for the fact that I was dining solo.

The restaurant is located just off the main lobby at the Westin St. Francis, on an elevated platform to the left. There's no separation of space between the bar and the restaurant, which makes for a noisy dining room. But the space benefits from the very high ceilings of the hotel lobby - even though it's already above the lobby floor - and dominated by 6 Ionic columns giving the room some character.

I went for the 6-course tasting menu, and as wine director Rajat Parr had come up with wine-pairings for each course, I decided that would be the way to go. I don't think I could have done better!

On arrival, I was presented with a flute of Chartogne Tallet Cuvée Michael Mina NV. Apparently one of my colleagues had arranged for this all the way from Hong Kong, which was a very kind gesture. There were typical citrus and oak notes, with lots of bubbles and a pretty yeasty attack. The wine was crisp and not too dry on the palate, which was quite a nice balance. Most of all, the finish was very long. Quite enjoyable.

The chef sent out an amuse bouche that is actually on the other menus: Dungeness crab - backfin meat, cioppino broth, tinkerbell peppers. The crab meat was very sweet and balanced very nicely with the cioppino. The olives were really wonderful and tasty, while the tiny calamari rings added additional texture.

I chose to have the foie gras terrine - sumac financier, pomegranate gelée, toasted pine nuts to start. The silky smooth, slightly sweet foie gras paired very well with the tangy sumac and pomegranate. The fragrant toasted pine nuts on top added a whole new dimension to the dish.

This course was paired with a glass of 2006 Kracher Cuvée Beerenauslese. I'm a big fan of the sweet wines from Austrian producer Alois Kracher, and it was refreshing to see this on the menu. Nose of honey, honeydew, apricot, orange blossom, with a bit of sharp acetone. The wine was actually slightly bitter mid-palate, tasting like orange marmalade.

What followed was crispy skin fillet of branzino - chick pea purée, olive tapenade, panisse croûton. The seabass was done perfectly - crispy skin while the flesh was tender and juicy. It worked very well with the chick pea purée, and also with the citrus pesto. The 'croûton' was creamy and delicious.

The wine for this course was 2005 Ladoucette Pouilly-Fumé - a totally underrated wine. Lots of minerals, flint and oak here, with a hint of lemon, a bit of sweet butter. Long and spicy finish.

My favorite dish of the evening was the pan-seared squab breast - chanterelle mushrooms, chestnuts, Brussels sprouts. You basically get it done two-ways on the same plate: the leg was a confit - crispy, concentrated flavors and sooo yummy. The breast was pink, juicy and tender. The sweet and bitter Brussel sprouts were great, and the black truffle grounds in the sauce completed the whole experience.

I didn't quite like the 2006 Gros Frère & Soeur Vosne-Romanée. The nose had lots of jammy sweet fruit, with hints of smoke and some caramel after a while, it was also very alcoholic. Basically the wine is just too young, and was very 'grippy' both in terms of tannins and acidity. Not well-balanced at this stage.

The chef kept the bar high for the next few dishes. The hand rolled cavatelli - confit rabbit, butternut squash, brown butter rabbit jus was awesome. I fell in love with the first nibble of sweet butternut squash, then the cavallo nero made this dish to die for. The bittersweet taste of the vegetable absolutely made the dish. What is cavallo nero and why was the taste so familiar? Why, it's also known as black kale, or a type of kai lan (芥蘭) to the Chinese!

The 2005 Domaine du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape was pretty good, but still very young and alcoholic. Nose was a bit minty with strawberry marshmellows. Very long finish.

I opted for the lamb instead of Kobe beef. With a name like Elysian Fields lamb saddle - artichoke mustard, roasted tomatoes, potato gnocchi, this cannot be anything else but heavenly. The lamb was pink and tender inside, while the outer rim was seared perfectly. What was most important was that the chef left strips of fat on the meat, and nothing in the world beats animal fat that has been seared to a crisp on the surface. As I remarked to my server, "lamb is nothing without the fat!"

The 2006 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage was a wonderful wine. Despite being made from 100% Syrah, the nose was very much like a Côte-Rôtie, with the telltale floral notes of violet and rose. The wonderful nose also included classic notes of smoked meats. Unfortunately it is also still a young wine, so it was too tannic and grippy on the palate.

I chose dessert over cheese, and the kabocha squash (isn't kabocha simply pumpkin in Japanese?) - butter cake, cocoa caramel, coconut curry ice cream was divine. The scoop of ice cream made the dessert - I thought I was tasting Thai green curry! Worked well with the butter cake.

I finished with a glass of the 2003 Royal Tokaji Company Tokaji 5 Puttonyos - this has got to be the "Blue Label" and another perennial favorite of mine. Nose of marmalade, cloves, a bit of honeydew and just a tad sharp with the acetone. The wine is still young and has a nice balance between the sweetness and the acidity.

But wait! There are still bonbons! Black sesame ice cream coated in milk chocolate, and orange ice cream coated in white chocolate. Topped with rice crispies. Truly sinful and I'm bursting at the seams.

What made the evening truly fantastic was my server Malcolm. It's not often that I rave about restaurant service, but I definitely need to commend Malcolm. It is so rare to meet someone at a restaurant who is so knowledgeable about food and wine. He knew every ingredient and exactly what it contributed to the overall taste of the dish. He also knew his wines, and is able to describe them and discuss similarities with other wines. He obviously knew I was really into food and wine, especially since I was taking pictures with my SLR the whole time. Exceptional service. And all the captains called me by name throughout the evening, even as I left.

I will definitely be paying the restaurant another visit the next time I'm in town.

Dining solo

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Let's face it: it sucks to have to eat alone in a restaurant. For years I have chosen to have either something really down-market or simply getting room service in my hotel room. Both are forms of torture for people who see themselves as foodies.

I'm flying solo for a few days in San Francisco. While I don't mind grabbing something simple like an In/Out Burger for lunch, dinners are completely different. Trying to find somewhere decent to eat alone (and not feel like Steve Martin in The Lonely Guy) is not easy.

Tonight I spent a good amount of time walking around Union Square, circling it a couple of times trying to find somewhere to go. I debated about going into Farallon, since I have passed by numerous times on previous visits. But nothing really struck me.

Finally I found myself in front of Kuleto's, Pat Kuleto's original restaurant. A quick look at the menu outside and I walked through the doors, requested "table for one" and found myself seated at the bar counter right in front of the open kitchen.

Sitting in front of this open kitchen was quite an experience. I immediately felt the heat coming from the open grills as well as the deep-fryer and open flames. It was also an opportunity to watch the head chef dispatch orders to all the line cooks, and see how the real cooking is done. And yes, the line cooks were all of Hispanic descent as Anthony Boudain would tell you in Kitchen Confidential.

I started with a glass of 2007 Cambíata Monterey County Albariño, as I wanted something that wasn't a Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio. The rather full glass delivered pleasant results - nose of tropical fruit, a hint of oak and minerals (even though the wine sees no oak). The wine was a bit flat (hence easy drinking) mid-palate, but it had a nice long finish...especially in the back of my throat!

I started with coppa di testa - head cheese again! This time there was a healthy chunk of it on my plate, along with some nice greens drenched in lots of olive oil and crispy melba toast. Yummy.

What followed was risotto allo zafferano, with gulf shrimps and day boat sea scallops. I complimented Chef Eric on the dish, and he promptly gave credit to his line cook Alex. The risotto wasn't as al dente as hardcore Italians would have it, but nevertheless I thought it achieved a fine balance and very much to my liking. The seafood was fresh and sweet, although curiously I always ended up with a grain or two of very fine sand (or something else hard) with my scallops. The saffron, basil and garlic combined to create something truly flavorful, and I lapped up the dish in no time. One side effect though - this was a bit heavy on the salt and I found my throat a little parched as I left the restaurant.

Perhaps it was because I was dining alone at the bar. Or because I was a little Asian furiously typing away on his Blackberry. But the staff was incredibly friendly and came by from time to time to make small talk. The captain had accidentally input the wrong order for my main course, and apologized several times for his error. I came out of the restaurant not only satiated, but felt convinced that I would return at a later date.