The best dishes I had in 2019

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It's been a busy year at work, thanks to me changing jobs at the start of the year.  I definitely did not take as many holidays as I had planned, and in fact I ended up eating out less altogether.  That being said, I still found plenty of opportunities to pig out all over the world.

As in previous years, I have put together a list of the dishes which I thought were "the best", in the sense that they elicited the most amount of positive emotions from me.  They are listed in chronological order here:

Deep-fried garoupa filet (吉列老虎班球), from The Sports Club (五陵會), Hong Kong - there's something about battered and deep-fried fish, and this was probably the best version I've ever had.  I was totally amazed that something like this could be executed at this level... with light and crispy batter enveloping very fluffy and soft fish.  And that starchy egg drop and corn sauce was beautiful.

Braised stuffed sea cucumber (海參鑲肉), from mom - OK, so I'll never grow tired of eating this dish from mom.  Soft and wobbly sea cucumber stuffed with minced pork.  I'm so lucky that mom is a wonderful cook.

The chef who smiles not, NY edition

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It's been more than 5 years since I was last in New York, and thankfully this time I'm staying a little longer than a day.  Unfortunately for me, I only have 2 nights in town, which really leaves just one slot for dinner.  There was never any question about which restaurant I'd hit, though... and my good friend The Dining Austrian very kindly hooked me up with Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare.

After changing out of my monkey suit into something more comfortable after a full day of meetings, I rushed over to the restaurant only to discover, to my horror, that I actually forgot to wear a jacket to dinner.  So I dutifully donned the loaner from the restaurant, and the two of us took our seats at the large, C-shaped counter.

César Ramirez seems to have a reputation for being a man of few words, although he did stop by and greeted us for more than 3 seconds since he knew one of us was friends with The Dining Austrian.  He never came near us again for the rest of the evening...

We started the evening with a glass of bubbly:

Pierre Peters Blanc de Blancs Cuvée de Réserve, dégorgée Mai 2019 - a little over-ripe, some acidity here.  Somehow this just wasn't great.

Caviar - a tartlet with wild yellowtail (鰤) topped with Kaluga Queen caviar (no specific type mentioned so I will assume it's huso dauricus), perilla flowers, and sansho leaves (木の芽).  I was surprised at the acidity here, which came from lemon juice on the yellowtail.  That kinda balanced out the salinity coming from the caviar, I guess.

US excursion 2014: Cronut run

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Last day in the US, and I’m standing in line for food again. This time around I’m waiting to get my hands on some of them world-famous Cronuts.

I first met Dominique Ansel a few years ago when he visited Hong Kong. Our mutual friends arranged a dinner together, and the evening progressed into a very fun karaoke session afterwards. Fast forward a couple of years and he’s opened up Dominique Ansel Bakery with the help of my friends. I watched from afar as they gradually made a name for themselves.

Then came the Cronut craze, and the ensuing trademark controversy. Lots of people around the world were trying to emulate the product, and Dominique and my friends fought to defend the product name as their trademark applications were pending approval in various jurisdictions around the world. At dinner a few nights ago, some people brought up the fact that Swissbeck Bakery in Hong Kong had rolled out a version they had called the “Cronut”. I casually mentioned that I was the person who had alerted the people at Dominique Ansel Bakery to this, since I knew that the application to trademark the name “Cronut” had already been submitted at the time. Of course I needed to look out for the interests of my friends.

Now I was finally back in New York City, and there was no way I was leaving without visiting the bakery – both for Cronuts as well as a number of other creations. I emailed my friends in advance to let them know I was coming, and it was suggested that I get in the line before 7 a.m. Yes, despite being friends with the owners of the bakery, my friend Jay Essu and I lined up just like everyone else. And I was in line around 6:40 a.m. – a full 80 minutes before the bakery opened.

US excursion 2014: the seven year itch

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This is one meal that is 7 years overdue. On my very last trip to New York - which was, unbelievably, eons ago – I was all set to go to wd~50. I had made it to the high temple of molecular gastronomy, elBulli, the year before, and had heard a lot of good things about Wylie Dufresne’s place. Unfortunately for me, I came down with a massive case of toothache that day, and was in no shape to take in anything other than liquids that required no chewing. I called the restaurant with a heavy heart, told them I had to cancel last-minute because of my toothache, and left the city with more than an ounce of regret.

Tonight, on my one and only night spent in the city on this trip, I was determined to right this wrong. Initially my friend had suggested we go somewhere else, and because I didn’t wanna be difficult – and I was open to try out other suggestions – I was happy to go along with her choice. However, when I found out a week ago that Wylie announced the impending closure of the restaurant due to the premises being redeveloped, I knew it was now or never. Fortunately, my friend was able to get us a table.

It took a little longer than expected for me to walk over from the Mondrian Soho to the restaurant, passing through parts of Chinatown and the heart of Little Italy along the way. The place was pretty unassuming, and I could see why the place was getting redeveloped.

There were two menus on offer, and I was thankful that my friend agreed to do the longer, regular tasting menu with me. The shorter one had only half the number of courses and would have left me with a lingering sense that I hadn’t gotten the full picture.

We started with these paper-thin sesame crisps. Really yummy thanks to the sesame seeds, and with just the right amount of salt for flavoring.

US excursion 2014: two sandwiches and the Twin Towers

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I had an early morning flight this morning, so I was always gonna take my breakfast at O’Hare. After going through TSA’s security screening – where they make everyone feel like a terrorist or criminal – I scanned the plans for Terminal 3 and figured the best place to grab a bite would be Tortas Frontera by Rick Bayless. Having rejected numerous friends’ suggestions that I check out Rick Bayless’ restaurants serving Mexican fare while in town, I guess in the end I just have to have a little Mexican.

The thought that griddled sandwiches may be a little big for breakfast did cross my mind, but I still went for one. As it turned out the egg and chorizo torta was pretty tasty, and I even found myself pouring enough of the green chili sauce in the middle to get a little kick. Not bad.

After I arrived at the Mondrian Soho, I dropped my big suitcase with the bell boys and schlepped over to Katz’ Deli for the first of only three meals during my very short stay in town.

Restaurant Magazine's Top List 2008

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The list of "World's 50 Best Restaurants" have just been published yet again by UK's Restaurant Magazine. The updated list for 2008 remains unchanged at the top, and since I haven't made any visits to Europe and the US since 2006, I have only been to 4 out of the top 10.  I would certainly agree that El Bulli, French Laundry and per se all merit a place within the top 10. Not so sure about Arzak.  I have been to 18 of the top 100 restaurants listed.

Honestly, some of the restaurant rankings make me choke, and I question whether some of the people on the panel really know what they are talking about, particularly when it comes to Asian/Japanese food.

As Chubby Hubby has already mentioned in his blog, restaurants from Japan are glaringly missing - there are NONE among the top 100. The top restaurant in Asia continues to be Bukhara in New Delhi - at #55. While I have been to Bukhara and really enjoyed my dining experience there, I feel that there are many, many better restaurants across Asia. Can this be a result of the heavy British influence, where many of the Brits have visited India while travel less to Japan?

Other British/western influence end up with some glaringly ludicrous rankings. Hakkasan at #19? Puh-leeeze! Chinese food for Brits in a hip setting, only a step up from serving chop suey and General Tso's chicken... Nobu London, Nobu New York, Zuma London and Zuma Hong Kong?! These guys clearly have never had a good meal in Japan! Why does Zuma Hong Kong even deserve its #99 spot?!

I am happy, however, with the fact that Singapore's Iggy's has shown up at #77. I have always liked Iggy's and felt it was the best western restuarant in Singapore by a long shot. Pierre Gagnaire in Hong Kong has also made it at #88.

Let us hope that the list improves every year, in terms of having more people on the panel who actually know Asian cuisine...

My Top 10 Restaurants in the World

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I was browsing the web and was looking through ChubbyHubby's website, when I decided to read his review of per se. I'm not sure why, but I was suddenly struck by an urge to list out the top restaurants that I have had the pleasure, no priviledge, of dining at.

Since many of my friends know of my reputation (or is it infamy) as a foodie, I am often asked about my favorite restaurants. So here goes:

1. El Bulli (Roses, Spain)
This restaurant deserves every bit of the attention it has been getting. It is the single hardest reservation to make in the world. I was fortunate to have secured a table for June 2006, on my birthday no less! My experience here surpasses any other meal I have ever had, so it will probably remain #1 for quite some time.

2. per se (New York, USA)
Many people would be amazed that I would rank this ahead of the French Laundry, since Thomas Keller is usually found in Yountville, not New York. However, I think the atmosphere of per se just makes the dining experience so much better, although the courses in the tasting menus are almost identical to that of the French Laundry. Last visited in March 2006.

3. The French Laundry (Yountville, USA)
This is Thomas Keller's flagship restaurant and justly deserves its place among my top experiences. It lost out to sister restaurant per se simply because we were seated upstairs and space was very cramped. One can't help but listen in on the conversation at the next table, which is very annoying to me when dining at fine establishments. Last visited in March 2006, a few days after the per se visit.

4. La Tour d'Argent (Paris, France) Given my penchant for creative and nouvelle cuisine, many people may be surprised at the ranking given to this grande dame of a restaurant, the symbol of haute cuisine for many. I am awed by the history of the place, the gigantic wine cellar (the collection was around 500,000 bottles during my last visit), and the amazing courses I had. It was here that I first had milky smooth foie gras d'oie scooped out to me using large dinner spoons. I have also had the caneton on both occasions, and received the little cards with their serial numbers. It's all about tradition here. Last visited in August 2002.

5. Kyubey 久兵衛 (Tokyo, Japan) Despite receiving only one Michelin star in the recently published guide, this is still my favorite sushi restaurant in the world. It is the one restaurant which I must go to during every visit to Tokyo (and only to the Ginza restaurant). I may try other sushi restaurants in the future, but for now Kyubey remains tops on my list. Last visited August 2007.

6. Guy Savoy (Paris, France) My only visit to this restaurant comes months after Guy finally receiving the third Michelin star that he rightfully deserves. I had ordered a bottle of nice white Burgundy, and I was offered different types of bread to pair with my choice of wine! That was a first for me. Last visited in August 2002.

7. Akelarre (San Sebastian, Spain) Maybe it was the drive out past Monte Igueldo on a nice day, but I really enjoyed the dining experience at this restaurant with views of the sea. The food is decidedly creative, like many establishments in Spain. Being able to order in half portions is definitely a plus. Last visited in June 2006.

8. Martin Berasategui (Lasarte, Spain) This Michelin 3-star restaurant is almost on par with Akelarre in my book. The food is wonderfully delicious, creative, and you can order everything in half portions. We sat out on the terrace for lunch on a beautiful day. The only thing marring the experience slightly was the periodic smell of manure floating in with the wind (which was fertilizing the beautifully green hill in front of us. This was also the first experience with how casual the Spaniards are when it comes to dressing to eat - some guy was wearing denim shorts and flip flops while dining at a 3-star restaurant! Last visited in June 2006.

9. Le Bernardin (New York, USA) Eric Ripert is a creative master, and I love dining at Le Bernardin when I'm in New York. This guy can do magic with all kinds of seafood, and the way they pack the large dining room every night is a testament to his skills. Last visited in March 2006.

10. Pierre (Hong Kong) It was tough deciding the 10th place on this list. Admittedly I have had many meals at great restaurants, and some with Michelin 3-stars have not made it into my Top 10. Why do I think Pierre deserves to be here? Well, the food IS extremely good and consistent. And the ambience is also wonderful, befitting a dining establishment of this stature. The biggest downside is the poor and expensive wine list, and the fact that they don't normally allow BYO. Last visited In March 2007.