One last feast

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We're back in Taipei again, this time primarily to celebrate - a few days belatedly - mom's birthday. It had been a more casual affair last year, but I was determined to take the Parental Units out for a nice meal this time. Coincidentally, this would also be the last fancy meal they would have before some major changes in their lives, so this meal would be more significant than usual. In retrospect, had I known earlier, I probably should have chosen a nice sushi restaurant for the occasion... but I already had my heart set on opening a bottle of red this year.

And I needed a competent sommelier to handle this delicate bottle - someone who could do a better job than the person who broke the cork from dad's wine last year. I immediately thought of Kevin Lu from logy, who is a Master Sommelier and received the Asia's Best Sommelier Award at Asia's 50 Best Restaurants in 2024 - after receiving the Sommelier Award from Michelin Guide Taiwan the previous year. I asked Little Rabbit to help pass a message about the bottle I was bringing, and booked us a table at the restaurant. Now that they have moved to new digs and done away with counter seating, the four of us would have a much easier time engaging in conversation while dining.

But there was a downside to the new location. The lighting now was much, much dimmer. Not only did it make it tough to take any decent pictures without jacking up the ISO, it also meant mom had a difficult time seeing her food. This was a real bummer.

As was the case on our first visit, there was no menu presented before service started. We didn't know how many courses were coming our way.

Soymilk / lactic acid / pine nut - this amuse bouche was apparently a signature, although it was new to me. We had a cold soymilk custard topped with a layer of tomato water and acid whey leftover from yogurt, garnished with pine nuts. The acidity from the whey helped to whet one's appetite.

Baked in Wanchai

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V is back in town for a few days, and since I happen to be free tonight, I decided to catch up with him over dinner. As our other friends were either out of town or deathly ill, it came down to just the two of us again. Wanting something casual but wanting to check out a place that was new to both of us, I suggested we hit Chouchou - the slightly more upscale sister restaurant from the people behind Babette.

While I really relish being pampered at fine dining restaurants, what Hong Kong really lacks is a collection of bistros and brasseries that serve straightforward French fare that taste good, without burning a hole in one's wallet. Unfortunately Jean May - a crowd favorites which rose to fame during the pandemic years - closed down recently. So I'm kinda on the hunt for more places where V and I can just bring a couple of bottles and chill.

The menu here offers a number of classics often featured at brasseries, and I was pretty happy to start ticking them off tonight.

Tarte fine aux champignons - 'tis the season for mushrooms, and I love having a pile of them in a puff pastry. Would have been even better if they did it as a vol-au-vent but I was still very happy.

Foie gras au torchon - doesn't get much more classic than this... and I could never say 'no' to toasted brioche. There was a condiment of pear and cocoa that was rather interesting.

Tourte - we were trying to see which dish to share, and felt this would be more interesting than côte de boeuf. When this arrived, I initially feared that it wasn't big enough and that we would need to order up more food. How wrong I was...

So this may not be the venison dartois from Hairy Legs, but it's still damn respectable with layers of Comté, jambon de Paris, potato, truffle sauce, and smoked pancetta (what? not lardons?) Very hearty and satisfying. And most important of all, went very, very well with our wines.

The tourte came with some sucrine lettuce on the side. Was that Marie Rose sauce on top?

Jardinière de légumes - always a good idea to have some veg for balance.

Île flottante - one does not often see this classic show up in Hong Kong, so I jumped at the chance. Fluffy meringue with a nice vanilla sauce. Happy.

V and I each brought a "casual" bottle, and as usual I was happy to pay the corkage. Originally we were meant to give up our table for the next seating, but seeing that we were paying HKD 1,000 for corkage that was pure profit for the restaurant, the manager told us we could take it easy and finish our wines.

2008 Gourt de Mautens Rasteau - popped and poured. Pretty nice and floral on the palate, and a little soapy. There was also a hint of funkiness, but pretty enjoyable.

2006 Jean-Michel Stephan Côte-Rôtie Côteaux de Tupin - started drinking more than 1½ hours after opening. This was definitely showing very well, with plenty of fragrant, woodsy notes. Drinking beautifully, and exactly how I was hoping it would be.

Well, we didn't finish the second bottle at the brasserie. We adjourned to V's Whiskey joint and hung out there. I was within 2 minutes' walking distance from a bunch of the afterparties for Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, but tonight, I treasured time with an old friend a lot more.

Diamonds and stars

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A little over 3 hours after running into Chef Liu, I walked through the doors of Yong Fu (甬府) in Hong Kong for a collaboration dinner B Bestie invited me to. I'm cognizant of the fact that I was just slagging off some of these collaboration dinners with multiple chefs across different countries and cuisines, but this one seemed a little different. Yong Fu Hong Kong and Yong Fu Shanghai are from the same group and serves dishes from the same cuisine, while I felt there can be real synergies among Ningbo cuisine and the Cantonese cuisine featured in Jade Dragon (譽瓏軒) as well as the Chiuchow cuisine showcased at Selection by Du (菁禧薈). In spite of my misgivings about the kind of stuff B Bestie gets up to in terms of these "x-hands", I have supreme confidence in Chef Liu Zhen (刘震)'s and Ms. Yu's ability to put together a fantastic menu.

The real VIPs were in the private rooms upstairs, while the KOLs sat in the main dining room downstairs. It's been a few years since I last saw Natalie from the City of Dreams, and of course she was here accompanying Chef Kelvin Au Yeung (歐陽文彥). I also got a chance to greet some old acquaintances I haven't seen in a couple of years.

While the four head chefs have put together a 10-course menu - where most of the dishes were individual efforts and one course included input from all of the chefs - there was a wine pairing featuring solely wines from China. This is definitely more of the trend these days, as restaurants from China are eager to feature wines from up-and-coming producers from their own country.

Appetizers (頭盤):

Six sons for lunch

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It was more than 8 years ago that I brought Gaggan and Tara to Seventh Son (家全七福) and fed them their famous roast suckling pig. Gaggan wanted some dim sum today with the boys, and although my original intention was to bring them to Forum Restaurant (富臨飯店) - which I introduced to our mutual friend Champagne Diva last year - plans changed a few hours ago. And we ended back here, with a table of 8 hungry mouths.

While waiting for our food to arrive, I showed the boys a picture of my friend on his last visit here. He was proudly wearing a top from a famous Japanese designer, woven with a Chinese character (or kanji (漢字), if you prefer) that one does not use at a dining table. I'm not sure how much my friend has changed since that meal 8 years ago, but at least this time it's too warm for him to be wearing the same top.

As always, Mr. Tsui Wai Kwan (徐維均) - the seventh son himself - sat at a table in a corner enjoying his lunch as well as observing the crowd. It's been a few years since I last stepped foot in this restaurant, and he seems to have aged a little more than I had expected - not unlike what happened to my own parents. I'm happy he's still fit enough to come and keep an eye on things.

Barbecued whole suckling pig (大紅片皮乳豬全體) - OF COURSE we started with the roast suckling pig again. The boys were all excited and took out their phones for pictures and videos, but some bongwater lover couldn't wait for everyone else and decided to snag a piece of the crackling first.

Kolkata, Hong Kong

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I was surprised when Gaggan told me that he was doing a pop-up in Hong Kong during the week of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants. He hasn't done a pop-up or collab at Asia's 50 Best since Singapore in 2023. I was even more surprised - pleasantly, of course - when he told me that it will be Indo-Chinese. He knows of my fondness for "Chindian" cuisine, so I was really looking forward to tasting what he and the team would come up with. Now, knowing that he was doing this at the Kerry Hotel - the host venue for the awards ceremonies of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants - I naturally dialed down my expectations...

Due to limits on work visas, Mr. Bongwater wasn't doing service tonight. I had originally planned to take him somewhere and open a few nice bottles together, but I would have a tough time passing up the chance for some fun with Gaggan, so Mr. Bongwater ended up sitting with us at dinner tonight. Foursheets and Bong Girl also joined us to make it a foursome.

The event is called Gaggan Tirreti Bazaar, after the Chinatown neighborhood in Gaggan's native Kolkata. I know my friend loves Chinese food, and maybe one of these days I'll have the opportunity to explore the Chinese restaurants in the area with him.

Henriot Brut Souverain - this was rounded on the palate with good acidity balance.

We started with a series of dim sum bites:

K-eighborhood in Jeju

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Lots of so-called KOLs are in town for the festivities around Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, and many restaurants in town are busy hosting 4-, 6-, 8-, and even collabs up to 14-hands. Unlike previous years where these "50 Best Signature Series" events were by invitation only, this year tickets are available for sale for the many meals. I'm pretty sure most of the events sold out quickly, too, once people were given the opportunity to participate in the fun.

I wasn't planning on going to any of the events at lunch time, since they're happening during my work week, but when the Kitchen Nazi pinged me about his collab event, I figured I could maybe take an extended lunch today. And since Mr. Bongwater had requested that I take him to Neighborhood while he's in town this week - something that was impossible due to the late timing of his request - I asked permission to bring him along, too.

I'll freely admit that I had not heard of Chef Kang Byungwook or his restaurant Last Spring (넘은 봄) on Jeju Island. When I first saw the event being advertised on social media, in the back of my mind I noted that the guest chef was "some Korean guy" and that his restaurant is not in Seoul - since the event was referred to as "K-eighborhood in Jeju". Funny thing was that while talking to a few KOLs who were also invited to the event, none of them knew who the guest chef was... In fact, some actually thought the Kitchen Nazi was doing this solo.

As we found out during the meal, Chef Kang actually worked in Hong Kong for a few years - both at my beloved Ta Vie 旅 and L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon. Apparently he also spent a month in the kitchen at Neighborhood, which is how he is connected to our host.

One of the reasons I don't go to many of these events is, well... I'm an asshole. I'm picky about who I sit with, even when the meal is free. In fact, I'm MORE picky about my dining companions when it's by invitation, because I really only want to share space and time with people whose company I enjoy (or at least don't object to). So with the restaurant filled with KOLs and wannabes, it's easy to guess how the meal went.

First up was what looked like the "dry bouillabaisse" that is often served here as the first dish, but the Kitchen Nazi called this "cold Jeju [seafood] stew". Local spiny lobster, razor clams, shrimp... etc. were poached in a crab broth seasoned with gochujang, then chilled before serving.

Big guns for big friends

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Hong Kong is hosting the awards ceremony of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants for the very first time, and we are being flooded with chefs, restauranteurs, KOLs and wannabes. Naturally, our friend Gaggan would be coming into town with his crew for the festivities. So Fergie and I arranged to catch up with him on the day of his arrival.

We know our friend is seldom in Hong Kong, and has asked for Cantonese food for this visit, so Fergie and I decided to take him to Man Ho Chinese Restaurant (萬豪金殿). Both of us are fans of Chef Jayson Tang (鄧家濠)'s cuisine, and although he's no spring chicken, we feel that he's pretty underrated and "undiscovered" - especially when it comes to the KOL crowd. If the visiting horde were all rushing to the same handful (or less) of restaurants for their fix of "Cantonese" cuisine, then we would be better off somewhere else.

I made arrangements with Jayson for a special menu for tonight, and also made arrangements with Keith - the restaurant manager - regarding glassware for the wines I would be lugging to dinner. Everyone was incredibly helpful and accommodating.

Hours before dinner, Vlad sent me a link to verify the restaurant's location. Much to my horror, I discovered that there were TWO restaurants in Hong Kong named Man Ho Chinese Restaurant!!! The place I know at the JW Marriott Hong Kong is known as 萬豪金殿 in Chinese, but there is another - with the same name in English but known as 萬豪中餐廳 - at the Hong Kong SkyCity Marriott Hotel near the airport. I quickly let my friend know the correct location to make sure they don't take a long ride in the wrong direction.

Well... despite having been warned by his trusty partner, Gaggan still put in the wrong location into his ride-hailing app... Thankfully he discovered it halfway and turned around. We would start our dinner a little late, then...

Indian Hairy Legs did manage to make it to dinner, and I'm really happy to catch up with him again after missing a couple of opportunities over the last few months. Of course, it's nice to see Mr. Bongwater, too!

We started with the current amuse bouche, which was a little abalone with some slices of pickled cucumber, together with a sweet, spiced plum gelée. A nice and refreshing bite.

Signature barbecued pork with honey sauce (萬豪貴妃叉燒) - always good to kick off a meal with some char siu, and the Ibérico pork collar (脢頭) is so, sooo tender. Soooo tasty. I'm always happy to chew on this and taste the juices.

Not your average lobster roll

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It's Friday night and Foursheets is at home entertaining some friends from out of town. I decided to take the opportunity to have some "me time", and my initial thoughts were to go check out places I haven't been before - especially somewhere more casual. But it IS Friday night, and many of these new joints were seeing good business... which meant no seats for me on short notice.

I messaged the Hairy Chevalier and asked whether I could just sit at Caprice Bar and have two dishes from the kitchen. I also asked if there were new dishes I haven't had a chance to taste - but of course there were... I figured I would end with a dessert from Brownpaperbagged.

I arrived to find, much to my surprise, a mostly-empty bar. Hairy Chevalier had very kindly arranged a table by the window for me, and said he would send me a couple of seasonal dishes. Meanwhile, I had requested the services of Floriane, who had received the Michelin Guide Sommelier Award only yesterday. I asked her to pick out the wines which would pair well with the dishes that the kitchen would be sending my way... whose identities I did not know.

Green asparagus with verbena and citrus cream, spring jelly - we had asparagus gelée with diced asparagus, verbena cream and citrus cream, and of course asparagus spears and slices. So refreshing, so pure. It's just the taste of spring inside one's mouth. As it turns out, I was the guinea pig for the dish. They had been testing it in the kitchen but had not put it on the menu, and since I was around they decided to send it to me. And I happily lapped it up.

The asparagus from Vallée de Loire was paired with a wine from the same region:

Cheesy Wednesday

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I have not been a good friend. My old friend Jeremy Evrard returned to Hong Kong with his family, and opened up Roucou to continue pursuing his love of French cheese. Plenty of friends have raved about the "cheese omakase" he is serving up, but other than a last-minute decision to drop in, I never made any serious plans to check out the offerings. Until tonight.

Foursheets and I were catching up with an old friend after quite some time, so I figured we could just come and have some bites with a couple of bottles of wine. Our friend did not want to have the cheese omakase, so I figured I'll save that for a later date.

Saint Felicien: hamachi carpaccio, daikon raddish herbal oil and cheese dip - this was a little meh, as the fish was still a bit frozen.

Saved by the sticks

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It was a little more than 2 years ago that I last saw Egon Müller IV in Hong Kong, at an amazing tasting featuring wines from his family estate Weingut Egon Müller - Scharzhof as well as those from Domaine Trimbach. When DaRC asked whether I would be interested in joining a tasting of his wines that is being organized by ORD Fine Wines, I immediately said "Yes". I do recall, with much fondness, the previous time I attended such a tasting just before the pandemic. This time, though, there would be some red wines at the tasting so it won't be just riesling.

The three of us showed up at the new home of Palco inside Heritage 1881. I know the restaurant only by name, but I figured simple Italian food would be fine... I would be wrong.

We started with a glass of welcome drink while waiting for everyone to arrive. As I sat in my seat while others mingled, I received a message from the Zhongmeister that he was here, too, together with some mutual friends. So I, too, got up and mingled. That was when I realized that Egon was not here. Apparently he needed to be at the estate, so his daughter Isabelle came in his place.

2021 Château Belá Štúrovo Riesling - nice, classic nose of petrol and white truffle. A little sweetish on the palate but still got the acidity.

We finally sat down and started dinner more than 40 minutes late... and I was starving.

Long time no goose

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I haven't been back to Yat Lok (一樂燒鵝) for a long time, as I kinda got sticker shock during my last visit. But I figured I could "downgrade" my lunch and spend a little less money today. And since I went a little bit early, the restaurant was actually only half full when I walked in.

Boss Lady asked whether I will be going to the Michelin Guide ceremony in Macau in two days' time. I told her that they don't actually invite me often, and I actually haven't been there since I ran into her there 3 years ago... She also asked where we moved away to, since we used to be neighbors for a few years... Well, maybe there's a chance we could be neighbors again!

Roast goose rice (燒鵝飯) - I decided not to have my usual goose leg since, at the current price of HKD 175 plus another HKD 22 for either rice or noodles, it's USD 25 for a simple lunch. When I first started coming here 20 years ago, the price was maybe half or less compared to today. Still OK, and I was happy enough with this.

Blanched morning glory (通菜全走)

Aussie neighbors

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After I missed out what looked like a fantastic dinner hosted by my Aussie friend a few weeks ago, the host suggested that we meet up at Neighborhood over a few bottles. As it was a bunch of rare and old Aussies I had missed out on, I thought we should have the same wine theme. With that in mind, the Film Buff would be a perfect dining companion on account of his collection of Aussie wines. I also ended up roping in Fergie because, well, surely he is up for drinking just about anything.

I didn't tell the Kitchen Nazi that I was coming, figuring that Shirley would let him know if necessary. He was geuinely surprised to see me as I tapped him on the shoulder. I was kinda hoping that this meant we could do the ordering ourselves, but no such luck... So we prepared ourselves for an onslaught.

Strawberries / burrata / caviar - I was surprised to find that there were two types of strawberries here... I thought the white chunks were potatoes, but they were actually white strawberries - which were just as delicious as the red ones. The salinity of the caviar worked very well with both the creamy burrata as well as the sweetness of the fruit.  Pretty refreshing as a first dish.

Peace out

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At the start of the year, Hoper's Base (人人和平) announced that they will be closing their current flagship by the end of the year. I have enjoyed a few meals over the last few years, although our last casual lunch there left a very bad taste in Foursheets' mouth. When Bong Girl pinged me about doing a dinner there with g4gary - who is school mates with the bosses - I was more than happy to put my hand up.

The restaurant had proposed a menu for us, and since it may or may not be my last visit here, I figured I'd make two special requests. As if we didn't already have enough food.

It's been a while since I was last here, and since our friend is a VIP, we were led to the "private room" in the adjacent shop space. At least here we wouldn't have to be bothered by the unpleasant smell that I've encountered before...

Nostalgic "money chicken" (和平金錢雞) - right off the bat we have the first item I requested. "Gold coin chicken (金錢雞)" is one of my favorite items in Cantonese cuisine, and so there are increasingly few places which continue this tradition. I loved it when it was served on my very first visit here, on a bed of deep-fried rice crispies (鍋巴). Sadly, they discontinued that amazing version. Nowadays it comes on top of a slice of baguette, which doesn't come anywhere close to giving the satisfaction of the previous version.

The team Chairman

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It's been a few months since my last trip to The Chairman (大班樓), and this time around I brought along people from my team - who normally don't have the opportunity. As some of them are visiting for the first time, once again I proposed a menu suitable for first-timers...

Crispy taro cake with smoked duck (茘甫鴨盒) - this was pretty good today. The smokiness was nice, and the diced Chinese celery inside was very fragrant.

Deep fried crab meat and mushroom dumplings (金錢蟹盒) - Danny very kindly offered us an extra appetizer. This is old school, and very tasty. Unfortunately it was also a little greasy... but I know it's not easy to get this one just right.

Flaming sticks

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I don't normally get to eat much yakitori (焼き鳥), since Foursheets is very picky about where she will eat chicken. She also doesn't eat chicken offal, and serious yakitori joints pride themselves on their offerings of rare chicken parts. So while lots of people in Hong Kong have been going gaga over Torikaze (鳥かぜ) - the new, local outpost of famed Torishiki (鳥しき) - I've kinda just let the hype pass by. I wasn't too fussed, and happy to let people fight over these precious seats.

B Bestie finally decided that it was time for me to check the place out, and very kindly let me join a group of ladies tonight. We were seated in the middle of the U-shaped counter for the first seating, with a good view of both the grills sitting behind the glass wall.

It's a prix fixe menu but there were plenty of options for add-ons, with a choice of 14 chicken parts as well as 10 additional non-chicken alternatives - 9 of which are vegetarian. So potentially this could be a more balanced meal, except we were limited to just 3 additional items due to time constraints... or so B Bestie claimed.

It was interesting to me that, at least during the second half of the meal, head chef Matsui Ryo (松井亮) was focused on grilling the vegetables instead of chicken. I take that as a sign of the importance they place on the vegetarian options on their menu.

Chicken mousse, pickle red carrots and radish, konbu jelly (紅白なます) - this was definitely an upgraded version of the classic pickled carrots and radish, with some purple carrots included.