September 2, 2010

Seafood and a summer white

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I was craving to open a nice bottle of white wine on this summer day, so I went back to Tuscany by H with a friend in search of Harlan's pasta special.  I got pretty much exactly what I was looking for...

I opened the 2002 Coche-Dury Meursault in the office, and had it decanted when I arrived at the restaurant.  The nose was classic Coche-Dury...I could be blindfolded and still recognize this wine.  Loads of toast, popcorn, nutty, a little sweet on the nose, buttery and a little alcoholic.  Later on, even a little floral.  The acidity balance was perfect - the acidity is there, but not strong enough to bother you.  What a wonderful wine to drink tonight!

Hiramasa King Fish carpaccio, smoked anchovy, orange, fennel and Sicilian citrus dressing - OK, I wouldn't exactly call it carpaccio, more like sashimi, and if the slices were any thicker I'd start calling it tataki (たたき)... I assume the fish came from Australia since it's called yellowtail kingfish rather than yellowtail amberjack.  Anyway it is in the same genus as the yellowtail (ハマチ, 鰤) that we normally eat at sushi joints, which explains the familiar red strips on the edges.  The strips of anchovy were an interesting touch, and the citrus dressing was refreshing.

Hand made squid ink spaghetti chitarra, fresh spanner crab meat, basil, tomatoes in baby shrimp sauce and shaved bottarga di muggine - this was perfect... I wanted a pasta with shrimp sauce, and I wanted some bottarga.  I got both.  I was wondering about the squid ink but it worked.  All the flavors of the sea in one mouthful.  Not for the fainthearted, though... It was almost a little overboard, a little too complex if you think about it.  But I wasn't thinking or analyzing.  I just ate.  And I loved it.

I was pretty full, and honestly didn't need dessert on top of the wonderful pasta I just had. We slowly finished the Meursault and enjoyed it to the last drop.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

really want to rush out for the squid ink spaghetti now .. sounds too good to delay :)


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