Ro ro e vino

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We took advantage of DaRC being back in town for a few weeks to catch up with him and Ro Ro over dinner, and this time I proposed going somewhere that Foursheets has wanted to try for some time - Carna by Dario Checcini. Foursheets has always liked a good piece of steak, and of course Ro Ro would not have any objections to having lots of ro ro (肉肉)…

The ride up to the restaurant on a high floor at The Mondrian in an observation elevator provided a nice view of Victoria Harbour, and instantly puts one in a good mood.

One is offered a choice of welcome drink at the reception area, and I chose the house cocktail over a glass of Chianti poured from a traditional fiasco. We are not at Dario’s place in Panzano, and I was saving my palate for the wines we had brought ourselves.

I left the ordering to DaRC, as he has been here before – and has visited Dario’s in Italy. Every now and then, it’s nice to not have the responsibility of ordering for the table.

First up was the focaccia and the [squid ink] carta da musica. This was accompanied by some pickled vegetables.

Vitello tonnato – the thin slices of beef tongue and loin were very, very tender. The flavors of the tuna sauce and parsley sauce were also lovely. The croquettes came with mashed potatoes inside.

Zucchini spaghetti – these very, very long strips of zucchini came with a tasty pesto, crunchy hazelnuts and croutons. Very refreshing on a hot summer day.

Brodo di manzo con – we each shared a half order and this was really, really good. The braised beef tortellini had plenty of flavors, and that beef consommé was classic. Of course, the morels paired perfectly with the beefy flavors. Such a comforting dish that I would be happy to eat over and over again.

Costada di manzo, Frisonat, Carima, 45 days dry-aged – since we’re in Dario’s house, having a hunk of Italian beef was de rigueur. Of all the cuts offered on the menu, this was the only Italian one.

The kitchen did a very good job grilling, and I didn’t need any additional seasoning beyond what was already done.

Dario Cecchini’s stewed white beans – pretty nice with the sage.

French fries, Grana Padano cheese, black truffle

We felt we needed a little more meat but couldn’t do another steak.

Salsiccia alla griglia con tartufo – this was really, really tasty. Made with both beef and pork, this was one time when I didn’t think the addition of truffles was gratuitous. It really added a whole new layer of flavors. Loved the texture, too.

Tiramisú di casa – this had to be the best tiramisú this country bumpkin has ever eaten. That honor previously belonged to the now-defunct Ramato. Besides being extremely fluffy and airy, there was an additional shot of almond flavors thanks to what may have been the presence of amaretti cookies – which also added a little crunch. I’d love to buy bowls of this to take home and just bury my face in it - in the privacy of my own home and out of sight of another human being.

Olive oil cake - this was on the house.

We brought some bottles of big reds to go with the meat, including a couple of Italians.

2006 Casanova di Neri Cerratalto - double-decanted at home. Very big and oaky nose, with tons of sweet fruit along with sweet vanilla. Very concentrated on the palate, and a really lovely wine in the prime of its drinking window.

1985 Antinori Solaia - decanted an hour after opening and started drinking after 1½ hours in the decanter. A little too soft by now, although 20 minutes later this was more fragrant with some woodsy notes. Very soft and supple on the palate. Probaby should have started drinking earlier as the wine may have had too much aeration.

1994 Haut-Brion - decanted an hour after opening and started drinking after 2 hours in the decanter. Big nose of smoke and green pepper, tobacco, and a bit earthy. Really fragrant after about 2½ in the decanter. Still very much alive and going strong.

This was a really enjoyable evening. The dishes were simple and not too complicated, but everything was pretty tasty. Would love to come back next time someone feels the urge for a big piece of steak.