2.0 of 2.0

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I had the good fortune (or was it misfortune?) of visiting the reincarnated Roganic on its second day of opening, and while that meal delivered some very tasty bites, I wasn't sold on the sharing concept for main courses... and it was also a heavier meal such that I felt stuffed for the first time. Well, they've apparently revamped the format, so I guess it's the 2.0 version of Roganic 2.0... or should it be version 2.1?

Once again, I was seated at a table with the ladies - and B Bestie didn't even show up himself and sent Giona instead. No peanuts tonight, then...

We began with three snacks, which were similar or identical to ones I had last time:

Oolong cured Himalayan trout, beetroot sand carrot and hawthorn - the cured trout came coated in smoked Oolong tea oil with some Oolong tea salt (WTF is THAT?!). The roll was made with dehydrated sand carrot, then stuffed with diced trout belly with salt-baked sand carrot with celeriac. Unfortunately the shell wasn't crispy anymore, but the filling was a little sweet thanks to the carrots.

Fish, shrimp, but no crab

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I haven't seen my friend for 9 years. He lives halfway around the world from me, and for one reason or another - the pandemic among them - we just haven't traveled to each others' cities since I last saw him in Hong Kong. He's taking an East Asia tour this month, and I finally got a chance to catch up with him and his wife.

Incidentally, he's one of the people who bailed out on my booking at the Chairman (大班樓) earlier this week, despite the fact that his wife has never been. As both of them are staying in New Territories, I figured I would pick somewhere that involves less traveling on their side. Much to my surprise, out of the two options I presented, they chose the one that involved significantly more trekking...

I last trekked all the way to Fanling (粉嶺) for dinner at Sun Hon Kee Restaurant (新漢記飯店) on account of another visiting friend. We grabbed a bigger group of people and had Brother Hon come up with the daily specials. For our casual lunch today, though, there's no need to bother the boss.

Pork tendon with shallot oil and soy dipping sauce (白烚豬前腿筋) - this is an absolute must. I have never not loved this dish. The meat is so bouncy and tasty... and so much fun to chew on.

Having a ball

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This would sound incredulous to many, but I had not one, but two groups of people bail on me for my dinner booking at The Chairman (大班樓) tonight. Thankfully I haven't run out of friends who would be excited to have the opportunity to dine here, so I managed to rope in a few more thanks to the Zhongmeister.

I was lucky we didn't have people with voracious appetites, so no extra dishes for us tonight. But on this visit, I insisted on getting the one dish I wasn't able to order on my last visit. A dish that was new at the time, which took me almost four months to be able to taste.

Crispy taro cake with smoked duck (茘甫鴨盒) - pretty tasty with that nice, smoky flavor in the filling. I wished the taro mash was more fluffy on top, though. That would have been even better.

Birthday on the mountain

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We're back in Taipei because, among other things, it's Dad's 85th birthday. I wasn't able to celebrate with him last year, so I was determined to do something nice this year. I had read about Noma's pop-up in Taipei at YMS by onefifteen, which had opened this year on Yangmingshan (陽明山), just next to the Parental Units' home. I figured the location made perfect sense for the Parental Units.

But YMS by onefifteen had been touted as a members-only club, with price of membership reported to be TWD 600,000. Well, I wouldn't use the membership often enough to warrant shelling out that kind of money, so I put that idea aside.

Then I saw Hairy Legs and Victor post about the place, and mentioned to Hairy Legs about the proximity of the restaurant to the Parental Units' home. I did not realize until then that onefifteen (初衣食午) is the group behind 1929 by Guillaume Galliot in Shanghai, so he offered to make a booking at YMS for me. I also didn't realize until recently that a good friend from high school was the interior designer behind both YMS and 1929 by Guillaume Galliot - which would explain why my long-lost friend has been posting pictures about both restaurants on his social media account.

I received an email from the group's F and B manager about my booking, and since he asked about dietary restrictions and preferences, I sent back a list of what we prefer to do without. I also mentioned that mom is sensitive to many chemical additives, which include MSG but much, much more. While fine dining restaurants serving western cuisine are generally less of a risk in this area, but one can never be too careful.

It's been raining on and off today, and although we left the Parental Units' home under a very light drizzle, it wasn't a surprise that the higher up we got on the mountain, the wetter it became. When we arrived at the entrace to the compound, there were staff with umbrellas on hand to escort us inside. But we had just reached Lab 10 - the casual dining / tea salon within the compound. We would need to trek a few more steps next door to Restaurant 12, where the fine dining restaurant is located.

Our table was right next to the wine cellar, and I had a good view of the open kitchen from my seat. Chef Jonatan Motos Ferrán came to greet us, and since Hairy Legs had recommended his cuisine, I felt assured we would be in good hands tonight. The menu is long with 14 courses - 17 if you count the 4 mignardises individually - and it's been a while since mom sat through a long, fine dining dinner... but I hoped she would still enjoy it.

We started with a series of four canapés:

Tomato ⁃ burrata ⁃ olive - not surprisingly, the meringue made with tomato water was a little sweet. The filling in the middle was made of burrata along with diced tomatoes and olives.

Turks in Taipei

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We're back in Taipei for a few days, and the Parental Units were very understanding about us spending some time away from them. This gave us the opportunity to catch up with Little Rabbit, which we needed to do in order to exchange some gifts. I asked her to suggest a place for us to meet, with the overarching criterion that it shouldn't be fine dining. To my surprise, most of the places she suggested weren't actually Taiwanese - or Chinese, for that matter...

Eventually Foursheets decided that she wanted to have Turkish cuisine, so we ended up all the way across town at Izmir Turk Kitchen. They had literally just re-opened a few days ago, so Little Rabbit was kinda excited.

There is a selection of mezze to choose from, so I let the ladies go and pick them out...

Deep-fried in a hurry

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I haven't seen a business associate for quite a few years, and he very kindly offered to treat me to lunch while he's in town. I was a little taken aback when Ippoh (一宝) was suggested, but I figured this was a good opportunity to return and see how I feel about the place after a few years.

We didn't have a lot of time, so I suggested we switch from the special menu that had been booked to the short course Yuki (雪) - cutting the restaurant's revenue in half. I felt bad for the chef, but we would not have finished lunch in time otherwise.

I know I was 10 minutes late to lunch, but I don't think that warranted the lack of explanation for the appetizer. We have some broad beans, Chinese yam (山芋), and a soft-boiled egg together with ponzu (ポン酢) jelly.

No baseball bat tonight

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One is meant to give a gift made of wood to one's spouse on the fifth wedding anniversary. I only remembered about the tradition of anniversary gifts some time this morning, and briefly contemplated trying to buy a small, wooden mallet as a joke to give to Foursheets. When I told her about it later in the day, she scoffed at the idea of a mallet and suggested that I get her a baseball bat instead, since it's much harder and would do much more damage thanks to its mass. Well... I'm glad there isn't one around the house.

My day actually started with me singing the Bee Gees' hit Stayin' Alive - my anthem for having survived another year of marriage. Besides a little celebratory dance with me tryin' a little move from Tony Manero, the main celebration would be dinner at Caprice. It was, in fact, where we exchanged our vows and got married... and Hairy Legs had very kindly moved our booking to the Chef's Table - the actual place where it all happened 5 years ago.

2025 mooncake roundup

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We had just celebrated Mid-Autumn Festival (中秋節) earlier this week, and that meant I'd been munching my way through a few mooncakes. As was the case in the last few years, I mostly chomp on mooncakes I buy for myself - and for mom - and I'm actually grateful that I don't receive the flood of mooncakes that I see my friends getting. The reality is that I'm the only one in our household who consumes them - well, other than the occasional bits for CC Dogcow - so the only ones I want around the house are ones that I actually want to eat.

This year mom has requested that I bring her some Suzhou-style mooncakes (蘇式月餅) with flaky pastry, specifically with jujube paste (棗泥) filling. This isn't something I buy often, and I don't even have a regular supplier for this... so I figured I would try some and buy them for mom if they passed my taste test.

Jujube paste mooncakes (棗泥月餅) from Siu Ning Bo (小寧波) - I remember buying these a few years ago and they were pretty decent, so I bought them again.

Wagyu in the Valley

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Due to scheduling conflicts, I wasn't able to meet up with my Korean Kohai while we were in Seoul last month. Luckily he and his family were coming back to Hong Kong for a few days, and we managed to meet up over dinner tonight. As it's a very busy week for Foursheets and I in terms of dining out, I chose a place we like very much which doesn't force us to take long set menus... which takes me back to Locanda.

When I asked about pre-ordering dishes, someone practically circled half the menu... orz. We ended up picking 2 main courses ahead of time, and figured we could order the rest after we arrived.

Hokkaido scallop, crispy potato, broccolini purée, fennel salad - this looked a little more charred than I was expecting...

...but turned out pretty well.

Birthday is better without bluefin

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We haven't had good sushi in a while, and part of the reason was Kaki-san leaving Shikon by Yoshitake (すし 志魂) to return to Japan. Foursheets finally got her sushi craving and asked for it for her birthday, and she requested a return to Sushi Fujimoto (鮨ふじもと). We've enjoyed our previous visits there, so it made sense as her default option.

Not everyone arrived on time as instructed, so a few of us had to wait for 10 minutes or so before Fujimoto-san gave up and started service. At some sushiyas (鮨屋) in Japan, these late comers would not be given a scolding or not be allowed to book again, as tardiness is a cardinal sin - especially as sushiyas where the guests are served the same pieces together.

We first started with a cup of abalone soup. This was lovely with lots of flavor.

Moon over Wellington Street

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Tonight we celebrate Mid-Autumn Festival, but not in the company of our families. I haven't seen much of Kutsuyama since she moved back to Hong Kong, and we decided to catch up after spending some time together in Seoul last month. Foursheets heard about the lunch I enjoyed last week at Medora and decided that she wanted to check out the place for herself, so I dutifully booked us a table for dinner.

As I was being shown to our table, I managed to see a big paragraph of text next to my name on the pad carried by the staff. It quickly dawned on me that these would have been notes from Chef Vicky Cheng, maybe in the same way that someone had entered the words "prima donna" in the system at Amber under my name all those years ago. Uh-oh...

We were informed that Vicky had instructed for the staff to pour us glasses of Champagne to start, and there would be a few dishes coming our way. Well... maybe I should have had Foursheets make the booking so no one would need to make a fuss about us, and I did get dirty looks from the wife that I had rebuffed her original suggestion. Anyway... as we already have brought Champagne ourselves, I declined the generous offer so that I wouldn't get too toasted tonight.

We started with some bread selection.