Different kind of Night Vibes

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Monsieur Jamin has been talking about doing a massive Champagne night, which he decided to call 夜檳紛 after the laughable campaign Night Vibes Hong Kong (香港夜繽紛) by the Hong Kong government. Our friend had amassed a collection of Champagne which are rare by virtue of their small productions, and being the teetotaler that he is, needed a few more mouths to be able to taste through the collection. I requested Mrs Film Buff's attendance so that Foursheets would have someone to talk to during the long session, and eventually we grew to a group of 13.

Dinner arrangements were made at Tempura Tenon (天ぷら 天穩), a place whose cuisine a few friends had praised for some time. I have been really curious, as Chef Wing's work at his former establishment also got great reviews from friends. There is, of course, a dearth of decent tempura restaurants in Hong Kong, and I have long given up hope of having nice tempura in town. So I was kinda excited about the food at dinner.

Cold chawanmushi (冷やし茶碗蒸し) - the custard was actually made with corn, together with both white and yellow corn on top. Very sweet and refreshing.

The preview

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I had been helping Ms. Hurricane plan her big party, as she needed an "in" with Restaurant Petrus. Well... The Chef Who Tries to Kill Me always whines that I don't love him, that I only love Hairy Legs... blah blah... so I took the opportunity to introduce Ms. Hurricane to him. It is totally reasonable that my friend needed a "taste test" before committing to hosting her big party at the restaurant, so we came for a preview tonight.

I was the first to be seated, and since my lunch wasn't that filling, I had arrived with stomach growling. I mentioned to The Chef Who Tries to Kill Me that "I hesitate to tell you that I'm hungry..." because, well, saying those things in his presence has consequences. I also advised him to keep things reasonable on account of my friend, and he promised to "let us off easy."

I was pleasantly surprised to see Nicolas in the house, as he had just joined the team mere weeks earlier. I felt instantly at ease having a familiar face look after us.

Most of the dishes tonight would come from the current "Summer Dinner" menu, with the addition of a special dish designed to match the wines which would be opened at the upcoming party. I was brimming with excitement and couldn't wait for the food to arrive.

We started with a series of nibbles:

Truffle and beef tartare tart - we've got some acidity with the tartare along with some crunchy shallots. I could taste the umami and flavors of the sea from the tart shell thanks to the presence of kelp.

Don't let them decant your wine

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The Compatriot is making a rare overnight stop in town so he could have dinner with me, and asked for Cantonese food. We could hit one of our regular haunts for that, but I decided to try something different. Having been stuffed with lots of goodies at a lunch organized by a VVIP last year, I have been wanting to return to Flower Drum (鋒膳) on my own. I finally got around to that tonight.

My friend wanted to try more dishes, so we opted for the Omakase menu. Not the more expensive one, because that includes shark's fin that I wouldn't touch. Yesterday I saw the boss put up a post on social media about a special dish, and I was hoping that it would show up on our menu tonight.

We start with antipasto platter (三喜碟), which wasn't actually a platter but three different starters:

South African abalone with Bannou negi (南非鮑魚配萬能蔥) - the chilled abalone was fine, and came with some condiment that seemed to resemble 薑蓉, except in addition to spring onions, ginger, and sesame oil there were also fine bits of Chinese ham. The sauce made with Bannou negi (万能ねぎ) purée, though, was not that great as it left a bitter aftertaste.

Metropol memories

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I'm overcome with sadness. After 35 years, our friend's family has made the difficult decision to close down Metropol Restaurant (名都酒樓). While business has recovered from the tough years of 2019 through the Covid pandemic, the family is sitting on unrealized gains on the restaurant space and that math just ain't gonna get better. The restaurant's coming closure before the end of September has been announced, and owners and staff can be proud of the institution that together they have built - hence the use of the term 光榮結業.

While I cannot pinpoint the exact date I first dined here, it would probably have been within the first week or two of me arriving in Hong Kong at the end of May 1995. My office was in Pacific Place then, and it was a regular affair to go to lunch at Metropol whenever visitors from other offices arrived in Hong Kong. What I didn't realize until years later is that the restaurant - part of the Heichinrou (聘珍樓) group which started in Yokohama more than 140 years ago - is owned by the family of an alumnus of my high school in Tokyo.

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The space is large, able to host banquets of 100 tables with at least 10 diners per table. Lunch here is alwas a boisterous affair, as the place would be buzzing for a few hours - building up gradually from 8 a.m. when their breakfast service begins. For our visitors from outside Hong Kong, it's a real culture shock and quite an experience.

Occupy Amber: balls, coins, and acidity

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Five years ago Fish Ball left us, and since then we have taken to keeping a vegetarian diet on this day each year. And every single year at dinner time, we have stepped through the doors of Amber to experience the magic that Richard Ekkebus weaves with no meat and no dairy. Just vegetables and fruit.

This year, though, things are a little different. After holding 2 Michelin stars for 16 years since the introduction of the Michelin Guide for Hong Kong and Macau, Amber was finally inducted into the hallowed halls of restaurants with 3 Michelin stars in the guide's 17th edition. Those of us who know and love him were incredibly happy for Richard and the team. Tonight would be my first opportunity to see him since the promotion.

We opted for the smaller, 6-course menu. I expect to be eating a lot of sourdough bread tonight... so gotta leave some space!

The sommelier gave us very big pours of complimentary Champagne to start, and it was a nice one.

Eric Rodez Blanc de Noirs, Edition 45, dégorgée en Decembre 2023 - nice and lovely on the palate, with a good balance between acidity and ripeness, good depth and a long finish. Classic marmalade on the nose.

Days of chewing carefully: TV chef in da 'hood

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I've been keeping my schedule light this month to make it easier on myself, but I had given Mr. Chichi the finger a few times too many lately, so I agreed to join him at Neighborhood tonight to meet a new friend. Just like it was 3 weeks ago, The Kitchen Nazi wasn't ready when I arrived, and shooed me over to Paragon to grab a drink. I was then introduced to our last-minute companion who would be joining us for dinner.

I did start my evening on the right foot, though, with a Blue Note. I'd always order a drink that's blue.

Days of chewing carefully: why so complicated?

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Nowadays I don't get to see The Compatriot often, as neither of us are in Taiwan much. But he happened to be in Taipei this week so we made last-minute plans to meet up for dinner. I didn't have any place I needed to try, especially given my current condition, so I happily went along with his suggestion of Hosu (好嶼).

I had never heard of the place, but these guys apparently have themselves a Michelin Green Star. They do seem to use exclusively locally-sourced ingredients, with dishes inspired by Taiwanese banquets (辦桌). Well... I'm not really "local" enough and left Taiwan very young, so I don't think I've ever been to a proper 辦桌... So the ingredients and the flavors are gonna be pretty unfamiliar to me.

Our welcome drink was a cup of tea from Yilan (宜蘭) with some plum from last year.

Days of chewing carefully: two beef noodles

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It's not surprising that whenever we are back in Taiwan, one of Foursheets' favorite things to eat is beef noodle soup. Ever since I first introduced her to Lin Dong Fang Beef Noodles (林東芳牛肉麵) back in 2015, it has been a mainstay on her itinerary. She wanted to explore a couple of other places this week, so I let her pick...

We had tried to check out Lao Shan Dong Homemade Noodles (老山東牛肉家常麵店) a few months ago, but it was during the holiday season and there was an impossibly long line to get in. This time around, though, we went on a week night and had no trouble getting in. The place was still buzzing on a Monday night.

Pork and chives dumplings (豬肉韭菜水餃) - thick, hand-rolled wrappers with plenty of bite. Very nice.

Days of chewing carefully: Don't Go

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We have a visitor staying with us for a few days, and this was her very first trip to Taiwan. Naturally, we were eager to introduce her to some good, authentic Taiwanese cuisine. We were sitting in a taxi en route to our go-to casual Taiwanese when I suddenly thought of the delicious braised pork rice (滷肉飯) at My灶. It's a very popular place and normally not easy to book on short notice, but I picked up the phone to call them anyway. Much to my surprise, they had a spare table available. I immediately asked the taxi driver to turn around.

Stir-fried white water snowflake (炒水蓮) - this is always a good idea in Taiwan. I love this fibrous and crunchy veg, and pretty nice stir-fried with some mushrooms.

Days of chewing carefully: lost and found

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We're meeting up with the Parental Units tonight, and we chose to check out a place not far from their home. I may or may not have dined at A Gan Bistro (阿甘小館) before, but if I did it would have been close to 20 years ago. This was yet another recommendation from Little Rabbit, and I was looking forward to finding a place suitable for mom.

The place was busy on a Sunday night, and while the boss lady was too busy to stay and chit chat, she nevertheless was patient enough and entertained our request for the kitchen to dispense with MSG during cooking.

Coldcut chicken in Taiwanese style (鹽焗雞) - UMMMM, NO, this is NOT salt-baked chicken. It was, however, a very, very good steamed chicken (白斬雞). It was so, soooo tender, with that beautiful layer of jelly between the skin and the meat. The fact that it was a whole leg including the upper thigh was a plus, and seasoning it with some sesame oil made it even better. This is something I'd like to buy and take back to Hong Kong.

Days of chewing carefully: a homey lunch

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I'm back home in Taiwan for a week for my long-postponed dental surgery, and I would get just one meal between arrival last night and the dreaded procedure. Little Rabbit had recommended a place to eat chicken to Foursheets, so we trekked across town to have ourselves a quick lunch at Warm Home (溫暖好家).

Oyster mushroom three-cup sauce (三杯杏鮑菇) - pretty happy with this vegetarian version.

Venezuelans in Peru

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I've been a fan of Virgilio Martinez's and Pia Leon's for a number of years now, ever since Virgilio took up Richard Ekkebus' invitation for a collaboration at Amber. I have, sadly, never made my way to Central... having cancelled my trip to Peru three times for various reasons.

I should have been excited when MAZ opened in Tokyo, and it was the closest I could get to Virgilio's cuisine after I stopped visiting Ichu in Hong Kong. But I've had other priorities on my last few trips to Tokyo...

So I was pretty excited when MONO announced that they were doing a collaboration with MAZ. Thankfully seats were still available when I found out, and I invited a couple of friends along. Chef Santiago Fernandez who - like Ricardo - is also Venezuelan brought along greetings from Virgilio.

Miolo Cuvée Tradition Brut - this is always easy to drink, with light acidity on the palate.

The cuisine from Central and, by extension, MAZ is expressed as a journey through various altitudes or ecosystems. So it was with our menu tonight.

Sea floor

Fish maw empanada - accented with some guasacaca on top, with a sofrito inside made with fish maw. This was OK, as the fish maw didn't have much flavor and just added texture.

Cherry-popping 2025, episode 3

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While I was having my worst meal of 2025 a few months ago, I found out that Sporty Cousin had never dined at The Chairman (大班樓) and really wanted to. I wasted no time in grabbing a table so that Sporty Cousin could get his wish, so here we are tonight.

I knew that Sporty Cousin would be bringing a couple of frineds who, like him, were coming for the first time. So I let them choose the dishes they wanted to have, although I made a few suggestions. I also told them about a dish I would not allow to be on the menu tonight.

Crispy taro cake with smoked duck (茘甫鴨盒) - one of the classics here, although I felt that the taro mash tonight wasn't so fluffy on top and didn't look as beautiful as it normally would, and the oil used to fry this tasted a little old. However, the water chestnuts were still nice and crunchy, the smoky flavors of the duck still familiar, and this was definitely better with the aged vinegar on the side.

Champagne and pasta

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It's been a couple of weeks, but our good friends the Birdiegolfs still wanted to celebrate my birthday with me. I wasn't very particular about the venue this year, but when Locanda was suggested as one of the choices, I immediately asked whether they could still serve the black truffle carbonara that I had missed out on right before my birthday. Ahleeso checked with the chef, and happily reported back that they were still able to do it.

Locanda is a restaurant that Foursheets and I like well enough, but somehow we don't go there enough because it doesn't pop up in our heads when we think of places to go. That needs to change. We also need to make our first visit to Aedes Wine and Pasta Bar next door.

Gavin had forgotten that we are friends with Ahleeso, so he was a little surprised to see me walk in tonight. I hope that makes up for not answering his call on the black truffle dinner.

Culatello di Zibello D.O.P. - we needed something to go with our Champagne, and this is always a good idea.

Mushroom Forest

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The Kitchen Nazi pinged and asked if I was doing anything tonight. I know he had just been on a trip to Yunnan and came back with a haul of mushrooms, and my ever-generous friend wanted to share. For a split second I thought this was an invitation for a home dinner, but of course it would make much more sense for him to do this at Neighborhood. He extended the invitation to a few other friends, but we kinda had to figure out who else was coming by asking each other.

And he didn't tell me what time to show up. Same with a couple of other friends. So typical.

Those of us who arrived earlier than expected were shooed away to Paragon around the corner, because the boss wasn't quite ready for us. So a bunch of us sat around the bar while Foursheets nursed a drink, until we were called over to take our seats at our table.

Peanuts and pine nuts - well... I guess our dishes still weren't ready, because for a while all we had to eat were these peanuts and pine nuts from Yunnan. I guess they went well with the Dom Rosé that we started drinking...

16 hours in Osaka: Kanazawa in Osaka

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We have 1 night in Osaka - a city I hadn't been to since 1998 - and need a place to eat. Fergie has promised to buy me dinner, but surprisingly didn't have any suggestions on the venue. Well... the couple of places I've been wanting to hit in Osaka for years are either booked out for the evening or not open. I turned to the ever-trusty Tabelog and did a quick search. Much to my surprise, I was able to book seats at the counter for the four of us with two days' notice at a place with Tabelog Bronze Award and a Michelin star.

The second seating on a Sunday night at Higashichaya Nakamura (東茶屋 なかむら) finds us seated next to three friends of the chef who had brought their own bottles of wine. I had never heard of the place until two days ago, so I didn't have much expectations other than the approval and recognitions it had received. Besides, I wasn't the one paying for the meal, anyway...

Chef Nakamura Manabu (中村学) hails from Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), known for their great produce around Kanazawa (金沢) and Noto Peninsula (能登半島). Having trained in a number of estasblishments with Michelin stars in Kansai, he is known for bringing most of the seafood ingredients from his home region. Displayed prominently behind him tonight was a bottle collecting charity donations for the victims of the Noto Peninsula earthquake on January 1st of 2024.

Appetizer: lotus root, Japanese horsehair crab, sea urchin (先付: 蓮根 毛蟹 雲丹) - this was a pretty presentation on a large lotus leaf, which was sprayed with some water to create that look with summer rain drops on the leaves.

16 hours in Osaka: cold sake on a hot summer day

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Fergie pinged me two days ago, telling me there's been a change in his travel plans. Would I be able to join him for a short visit to Daimon Brewery (大門酒造) today? Well, I did have plans to meet up with Rikachu for lunch today, but I realized this visit was probably more important... So I apologized to my friends for bailing on them and made my travel arrangements.

After shoving some contraband into my check-in luggage, Fergie and I made our way to The Bridge. I haven't been here since this lounge re-opened, and I quickly got myself some breakfast.

I had seen friends post about the new biangbiang noodle (𰻞𰻞麵) offered at the lounge, which was in addition to the usual dandan noogle (擔擔麵). I figured I needed to check it out, and while some of the noodles stuck together as expected, the minced pork sauce was nice and spicy with the fragrance from Sichuan peppercorns.

Sweet drinks (are made of this)

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I had been looking forward to the new desserts that Astoria and the team had been developing at Caprice, and had the idea of doing a casual dinner at the Caprice Bar where I could try them all at once. I had to wait a few weeks until the new desserts all passed their internal taste tests, which was apparently done over last weekend. So I got myself a table for tonight, allowing me to catch Hairy Legs before he left for the summer.

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Anyss greeted us upon our arrival, and he was pretty excited to show us the new cocktails and the presentation format. Since we're on his turf tonight, we decided to order cocktails with our dinner for a change.

I Can't Drive _ _

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It’s that time of the year again, and I’m grateful that Foursheets flew halfway around the world to be back for this dinner. Just as I did last year, I chose to spend this night at my beloved Ta Vie 旅, as there were a few dishes I really wanted to have.

I chose not to dine here during the period when they were serving their 10th anniversary menu, featuring their “greatest hits” since opening, so I knew there was a good chance I wouldn’t be able to have the exact menu served to me tonight. Sato-san did, however, agree to serve me some of those dishes as part of the special menu he selected for me – interspersing the classics between new, seasonal dishes.

I’m also grateful that such a fine dining establishment would be open for business on a Sunday with the chef in the kitchen. That made my choice of restaurant much easier.

Nukazuke (糠漬け) bread – this little bread has been part of the journey on every single occasion, ever since the restaurant’s opening. I shall never tire of starting the meal by tearing open this piping hot bundle.

Snacks with an Accent

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The Great One pinged me asking whether I'd be interested in attending a four-hands collaboration between Chef Shantanu Mehrotra of Indian Accent and Chef Gaurav Kulhari of Chaat. She would be in Europe for the festivities in advance of The World's 50 Best Restaurants, but had been told that she could pass along her invitation to someone else.

As Foursheets is halfway around the world, I needed to find a dining companion willing to put up with me for a couple of hours. Thankfully The Man in White T-shirt was available and curious enough, so I didn't have to be the loner for the day. 

We are treading on B Bestie's turf, so I wasn't the least bit surprised to find that lunch had turned into dinner service for us. Thankfully I don't have anything planned for dinner since I'm home alone. B Bestie also very smartly kept me away from the table he was actually hosting for lunch...

Khakhra, vatana, chutneys, from Indian Accent - the flavors of the Gujarati khakra (ખાખરા) shell were now familiar to me after the few visits I paid The Bombay East Indian Girl last year, and here we've got some peas inside, with yogurt and tamarind chutney, and finally bits of dhokla (ઢોકળાં) on top with a tiny piece of avocado.

Funky Aussies

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Monsieur Jamin and the Film Buff have been talking about doing a dinner where all the wines tasted would be Aussie. Not only that, these would include some very off-beat, small production, highly sought-after gems that most wine lovers have never heard of. They invited me to join their shindig and, since the cat's away this week, this mouse decided that he would play.

We took a private room at Ming Court (明閣) Wanchai for the ten of us. I am, of course, aware that there's been a Wanchai outlet for this well-regarded restaurant for a few years now, but this part of town remains largely off my dining map. I'm glad to have had the opportunity to see how it compares with the "original" in Mongkok.

We started the evening with the crispy trio (脆香三疊), which I thought was perfect as a snack to go with some wines:

Fried cashew nuts with garlic salt and black pepper (蒜鹽黑椒腰果)

Fried lotus root chips with salt (鹽香脆藕片) - this was perfect as a snack to go with our wines, as the flavors were relatively neutral but one could taste the oil used in deep-frying... and that's just so satisfying.

Sweetened walnuts (琥珀甜桃仁) - I can never stop eating these once there's a bowl of it within my reach...

Smoked with delicious fat

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One of the restaurants in Shenzhen that I had heard good things about is Fumée (拂鳴). I had yet to pay them a visit as I'm still in the discovery stage with regard to the city across the border, and I have naturally focused on restaurants serving various schools of Chinese cuisine. I figured I'd get around to it eventually. When Mr. Chichi asked whether I'd be interested in joining a group tasting on a Sunday night, it didn't take me long to say 'Yes'.

After taking a detour on account of my stupidity, we arrived at the restaurant just before the appointed time. Our group was seating along the counter facing the kitchen, and I had the good fortune to keep the Kitchen Nazi company. He's always fun with eat with.

Our evening started with some Champagne...

Christophe Mignon ADN de Meunier Brut Nature, dégorgée le 20 Mai 2020 - initially this was served much too cold, a common mistake, so there wasn't much showing on the nose except for a little minerals. Got a little better once it warmed up with a little more depth on the palate.

Chef Reina Chen explained that she was serving us a spring menu, with ingredients reflecting the flavors she associates with the season. We would start with something refreshing:

We were shown some of the 9 ingredients used to make our welcome drink, including cardamom and "leaves from the forest".

This smelled of guava and pine or cypress... definitely very green. Nice and refreshing.

A classic Hong Kong experience

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Mikacina is back in town, and I was excited to have the opportunity to show her something more "local" than the other places she had on her itinerary. It would only the second trip here for Mr. P, and I was eager to let him experience more of what we love about Hong Kong. Rather than taking them to a cha chaan teng (茶餐廳), I opted for a slightly more comfy experience at Ho Hung Kee (何洪記). After all, it's a place that Foursheets and I visit from time to time by ourselves. I jokingly told Mikacina that she could have "Michelin-starred congee" when I first suggested the place, but she didn't take me seriously, and didn't realize until she arrived that the restaurant does, in fact, hold a Michelin star.

We were placed in a cozy booth just next to the restaurant entrance, which had been decorated with a flower motif. A somewhat romantic touch I did not expect from this place...

Foursheets and I proposed a few items that I thought were classics and visitors should experience, and after getting our friends' approval - including for items Mr. P did not think he would enjoy - we placed the order.

Assorted meat congee with sliced fish (羊城荔灣艇仔粥) - well, this IS one of the classic congees, and our Korean guests enjoyed it a lot. It's clearly very different from Korean porridge, and the varied ingredients like sliced fish, squid tentacles, jellyfish, shredded pork, peanuts... etc. make for an interesting mix.

Hot in the city

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I seldom have hankering for hotpot meals in restaurants. Besides the soup base - and often I would prefer something clear or even plain water - it's mostly about the ingredients. There isn't much cooking skill involved, and I freely admit to having next to none in that department. I'm almost always joining friends or family when I find myself at a hotpot restaurant. So it was the case today... when Mr. Chichi extended a rare invitation to join him for Beijing-style lamb hotpot (涮羊肉).

Having spent a lot less time in Central over the last year or so, I've been oblivious to the opening of Peking Hotpot (新京熹老北京涮肉火鍋) - a genuine Beijing import. I had, in fact, walked past it last month without taking much notice. But since Mr. Chichi is organizing, I figured I'd get to have a pretty good experience - and a lot of food.

We have the hotpot with traditional clear broth (傳統清湯鍋).

We were presented with the array of condiment sauce (搭檔小料), and I love the traditional sesame sauce.

Rush, rush

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My friendly neighborhood prime broker wanted to take me out to lunch in order to celebrate my new job, and also as an early celebration of our birthdays. She was rambling about some restaurant she'd never been to... when she suddenly lamented that she hadn't been back to The Chairman (大班樓) in a long time. Well... I decided to grow some thick skin and begged for a table - which was how we ended up here today.

Lunching at The Chairman is something I have seldom done, unless it's a weekend or I'm not working. Imagine showing up here today and immediately recognizing people at a few neighboring tables. I guess I don't live the same leisurely life as those people... but that's OK.

I left the choice of dishes entirely in the hands of my broker a.k.a. the Landlord. I thought she would consult with her colleagues before making the choices, but I was wrong. There were a few dishes that I would not have picked, that I didn't care for, but I bit my tongue. This lunch was about making someone else happy, and it had nothing to do with me.

Cold squid noodle and lily bulbs with pine nut gazpacho (魷魚涼麵百合配松子凍湯) - no, this isn't Cantonese cuisine. It's more Japanese and Korean, and that chilled pine nut cream is just so refreshing on a warm day. Those petals of 9-year-old lily bulb from Lanzhou (蘭州) is just so crunchy with incredibly high sugar content.

Redemption, one week later

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I was less than impressed with my dining experience at Hong Kong Cuisine 1983 (壹玖捌叁) last Friday, as the experimental tasting menu delivered a few head-scratchers. At the time, though, we already knew we would be coming back for lunch today. I had seen positive comments posted by friends about the dim sum here, which was why my dinner last week was so shockingly disappointing. Anyway, we got a different group today so we could try lots of stuff from their menu.

I was pretty excited looking at the dim sum section of the menu during my dinner last week, so I opened it up and started scanning for the goodies. That's when the staff came and told us not to order anything from the big menu... as the kitchen had come up with a new list of dim sum items, and those were presented on a totally different menu. So... one of the items I was most excited about trying is no longer available. Now I was disappointed even before we started ordering.

Someone was pretty excited about checking out as many dishes as we could with the five of us around the table, and it did turn out to be a big lunch...

Diced peppery Black Angus beef puff (胡椒安格斯牛肉餅) - I was a little surprised that this was the first item that arrived, but I suppose they had been pre-baked and could be heated up quickly?

Cinq années

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Five years ago today, our dear Bro Bro crossed the rainbow bridge. In the immediate aftermath of this devastating loss, Foursheets asked to have dinner at Nikushou because she couldn't be bothered cook, and couldn't think of anywhere to go eat. So we had a few cut of beef at our favorite yakiniku (焼肉) joint and washed it down with a bottle of wine.

We returned to Nikushou for the next 4 years and established the tradition of just having simple, delicious food with a bottle of wine. Unfortunately, Nikushou closed its doors days after Bro Bro's 4th anniversary. Tonight we needed fo find an alternative venue, and I defaulted to La Maison - another place whose food we enjoy without too much fuss. And they don't charge corkage.

I was late to dinner due to a work call, and when I stepped in to the restaurant, every single table was occupied. The space was very lively, unlike the few quiet evenings I have spent here in the past. There was even a singer on stage entertaining the guests.

I've always liked the bread they serve here. It's never anything fancy, but it comes out warm and generally tasty enough.

40-year-old Fortune

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We last saw DaRC and Ro Ro a few weeks ago before they jetted off, and they're about to do that again for a European tour, so we arranged to meet up for a couple of bottles. I asked for a place with decent glassware and decanters, where corkage wouldn't break the bank and, naturally, air conditioned. The decision was made to book us into the Fortune Room (幸運閣) at the Hong Kong Jockey Club, a place I haven't been back to in more than a decade.

This was a rare opportunity for me to completely step back from ordering. In fact, I didn't even look at the menu. At all. Members who know the menu well call the shots.

Crispy Bombay duck fish • fermented tofu (醬豆腐炸九肚魚) - thicker batter than expected, and the batter also had more flavor thanks to the fermented tofu.

Guest of Centurion

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Mr Birdiegolf is normally the silent one, so I was a little surprised when he pinged me... and not in our usual chat group, either. Would I be interested in attending an American Express Centurion gala dinner with him? Ahleeso, not surprisingly, has a date with sushi and would be unavailable. Well... I didn't know what this gala dinner was about, but hey... since I didn't have to pay for it, I was more than happy to be the 'plus one' for an evening.

As it turned out, this was to celebrate the 25th anniversary of American Express Centurion card in Hong Kong. The powers that be asked The Great One to 'curate' the dinner for the evening, but no one knew the details about dinner. So of course I checked with my friend, who mentioned to me that she asked Vicky Cheng (of VEA and Wing), Zaiyu Hasegawa (長谷川在佑, of DEN 傳), and "Pam" Pichaya Soontornyanakij (of Potong) to come and create a menu together. Well... that made things more interesting for me... and I thought it would be worthwhile to show up.

The event was held in the Grand Ballroom at the Rosewood Hong Kong. The dress code was "timeless elegance", and neither Mr Birdiegolf nor I had any clue what it meant. I knew that with this kind of crowd, many of the ladies would be dressed to the nines in cocktail dresses or something more formal, and many of the men would be in suits or black tie. I knew damn well that Mr Birdiefolf wasn't going in black tie, and not even in a boring suit... so I down-shifted on my outfit and wore something nice enough but not quite formal for the evening.

The two of us knew practically no one - and we had zero interest in having photos of ourselves taken with hired models in Roman centurion costumes - so after entering the event space we quickly found our way to the very back of the Centurion Bar like a couple of wallflowers, and just sipped on some Champagne. The one person we did know was The Great One, and I managed to coax her out of hiding to come talk to us for a while. We all felt a little easier in each others' company.

We took our seats at our table as dinner officially started. Guests were asked to scan a QR Code on the table, which initially revealed only the identities of the chefs cooking for us tonight. This had, apparently, been a secret that Amex staff either did not know or could not reveal to Centurion members - in what they called a "Black Box". In addition to the three chefs The Great One mentioned to me, Jonathan Soukdéo - the Executive Pastry Chef of the Rosewood Hong Kong - would be presenting two desserts. There was some fuss made about the "revelation" of the black box, after which the full menu became available after scanning the QR Code again.

Disappointment in the valley

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I find it hard to believe that it's been half a year since I last saw Ms. Hurricane, but such is her busy schedule traversing the globe. We managed to set up dinner for tonight, and she suggested we give Hong Kong Cuisine 1983 (壹玖捌叁) a try. I've tried the cuisine here a few times, but it's been quite a few years... and Chef Silas Li has since taken over the kitchen. I was very curious, then, to see what updates he would bring.

Ms. Hurricane suggested that we take the restaurant's tasting menu, and we thought it made sense to follow the recommendations of the person who knows the restaurant best. The staff then recommended we add the optional fish course, which we readily agreed to. My focus tonight was on the wines, so I was happy to just follow lah...

Right off the bat, we are getting some tableside service. It's been a few years since I last saw a restaurant dip stuff into liquid nitrogen in front of the diner, so this would be interesting...

Frozen salted kumquat parfait with sweet dried tangerine powder (冷凍鹹柑桔芭菲配香甜陳皮粉) - MEH. I was a big fan of molecular gastronomy, and still love it when it's done properly. This was not it.

Salmon roe celeriac purée tart with pickled Buddha's hand (三文魚子西芹頭蓉撻配老香櫞) - this was more interesting because, in the middle of all the cured salmon eggs that I love, we've got a few chunks of pickled Buddha's hand rind adding some sweetness. Quelle surprise!

Goose after wine

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We started drinking around 12ish, and continued past 7pm. Although we had a pretty big lunch, the skies were getting dark and it just felt like dinner time. Having mansplained to Champagne Diva and her daughters about how Cantonese typically chooses roast goose over Peking duck, it was time for us to show her. So we grabbed a couple of taxis and headed to my favorite Yat Lok (一樂燒鵝).

Boss lady is surprised to see Foursheets and I for the second night in a row, and we had a party of five. Thankfully we didn't have to wait too long for everyone to arrive, and we got seated pretty quickly after that.

Half roast goose (燒鵝半隻) - many Europeans never gets the opportunity to eat goose, and this is one of the best places to do it. With this many mouths to feed, half a goose was just about perfect. After all these years, I still love the spices I taste on the skin... and of course the meat, too.

More Champagne with Champagne Diva

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After running an errand across the harbor this morning, I came back for a lunch date with Champagne Diva. Apparently the meeting with The Chef Who Tries to Kill Me went well, and our visitor wanted to experience the cuisine at Restaurant Petrus for herself. I had originally hoped to take a break from dining out, but knowing full well that someone keeps complaining about not getting love from me, I decided to accept the kind invitation.

The Chef Who Tries to Kill Me showed up to our table with a smile on his face that belies his true nefarious intent. Both Champagne Diva and I expressed our wish for a smaller menu, as I recounted that my last dining experience here left me feeling comfortable for the first time in years. I knew, though, that I wasn't gonna get my wish...

Champagne cork - a gougère is always a nice way to start, especially when filled with Comté cream inside.

Goose is it

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It's been MUCH, MUCH too long since Foursheets and I last stepped foot in Yat Lok (一樂燒鵝), and as she was in the 'hood this evening, we decided to pay a visit to the boss lady.

Lower quarter of roast goose (燒鵝下庄) - our usual order. Gotta get that leg in there... It's been far too many months since we tasted the spices in the skin.

Rice flour noodles in soup (瀨粉) - love me some MSG-laden soup. Bring it on.

The hunt for Peking duck

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While enjoying our lunch today, the visitors were asking me where they could go and have - you guessed it - Peking duck. I explained to them that duck - especially Peking duck - isn't classic Cantonese fare... and that the go-to item is actually roast goose. Nevertheless, the ladies had a hankering for this classic dish that seems to be at the top of every visitor to Hong Kong, so I scrambled to find one on a couple of hours' notice.

No, Peking duck isn't really difficult to find in Hong Kong. For one thing, just about every Chinese restaurant in a 5-star hotel would offer it. The trick was to avoid a few restaurants that I had little interest in going to... Unfortunately for us, the places which offered some of the best ducks in town were either fully-booked or would require us to start dinner fairly late. That wasn't gonna work when there's a baby in tow...

And that was how we ended up at Spring Moon (嘉麟樓) at the Peninsula Hong Kong. They were able to fit our big group in, and I was grateful that we didn't get stuck by the restaurant entrance. We were conveniently placed in a spot that could accommodate the baby stroller. Big plus.

Just after we managed to finish ordering - which turned out to be a collective effort of the table, and inevitably resulted in too much food - Executive Chef Xavier Boyer came over to say hello. Despite not having returned to the hotel is close to a year, and not alerted anyone about coming, the CRM system probably flagged my booking and alerted him. I'm pretty sure Sébastien is to blame for this...

Our amuse bouche was a deep-fried milk custard coated batter with bamboo charcoal, on a bed of rice crispies and some salmon roe.

Dim sum with Champagne Diva

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Geruhage pinged me a couple of days ago, asking if I could help out one of his friends. Champagne Diva is coming to town for a few days, and she would appreciate a few introductions to industry people who may have interest in taking a look at her bottles. When my good friend asks for help, I try my damndest to deliver. Thankfully I managed to line up a meeting for her with one of my favorite restaurants in town.

I felt it would make sense to actually meet up with our visitor over a meal, so I booked us a table for lunch at Forum Restaurant (富臨飯店). It was a shame that Jacky was away this week studying for his MS exam, otherwise I could have introduced our visitor to him, too.

Due to a work commitment, I arrived a little late to lunch... much to my chagrin. By that time the ladies had already put in the first round of orders based on recommendations from the staff. As we found find out soon enough, some of those items were rather repetitive...

Pineapple bun with barbecued pork (菠蘿叉燒包) - this is something that is popular at many places around town, although I don't think I've ever ordered it here.