The best biryani I've ever had

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It has been 6 years since Fishball passed, and for the last 5 years we have been visiting Amber and taken their vegetarian menu. While we have been amazed by Chef Richard Ekkebus’ creations, we had also heard about our friend Chef Suveg Kavatkar’s special vegetarian menu served by special order at my beloeved Caprice. So we asked him to do this for us tonight.

Except, of course, that it’s Monday and Caprice is closed. When his lovely wife The Bombay East Indian Girl heard about this, she very kindly offered to cook a vegetarian feast for us at home. I was, of course, incredibly moved by her offer… and accepted the invitation with gratitude.

Khakra, apple chundo – as the person who originally introduced khakra (ખાખરા) to us, of course she had these ready for us to snack on. She made sure to substitute apple for mango in the chundo (छुन्दो) given Foursheet’s allergy.

Tomato burrata chatpata bhel – not the rainbow bhelpuri (भेलपूरी) she used to serve at the now-defunct Nine One.

Loved the tomatoes, and the crunch coming from puffed rice and sev (સેવ).

My version: Surat’s famous tameta puri / bhajiya with nadru twist – so… not exactly a bhajiya (भजिया) or a vada (वड़ा).

This was made with slices of tomatoes and lotus root, with the classic green chutney in the middle bringing a nice amount of heat.

Dahl vangyache bharit, Goan poee – the vangyache bharit (वांग्याचे भरीत) came with some sesame seeds, and it was served with the Goan flatbread poee (पोई). There was nice acidity and also good smoky flavors from the eggplant.

Dal dhokli (દાળ ઢોકળી) – of course we never knew they also have pasta in India… These were clumps of dough that kinda reminded me of gnocchi, but no potatoes are used.

The dal (दाल) came with peanuts.

Gucchi, bottle masala, hyacinth bean, baby corn – I’ve had morels a number of times from my friend and this was a new dish with them. We also had pods of the hyacinth bean.

Bombay pao – all that good stuff needs to go on something as a vessel, so the classic Bombay pao it was!

Young green jackfruit dum biryani – my friend knows of my love for biryani (बिरयानी), and made us the first vegetarian biryani we’ve ever had. Just look at those rice grains standing straight up in the clay pot!

Cucumber boodi raita

I’ve had savory dishes made with jackfruit before, but this was a first for Foursheets. Now, she said, she could understand why some vegetarians use it as a substitute for meat. By the way, the spices here was incredibly fragrant and alluring - and I honestly cannot remember eating a better biryani.

Summer fruits, pistachio, rabri – YASSS!!! Indians love putting gold on their food in the first place, and having seen all the gold I’d been getting from chef friends, she decided that she, too, needed to throw her hat in the ring. Not the first rabri (राबड़ी) my friend has served me, but this time it was with jackfruit, cantaloupe, coconut, and mango. Thankfully Foursheets doesn't eat desserts, so she didn't have a reaction to the mango.

I figured I’d bring along a few bottles for my friend, and leave behind whatever we didn’t finish drinking. Well… we had a long conversation and managed to polish off all 3 bottles! But first, Suveg opened something I have never tasted before…

Chandon Garden Spritz – I do enjoy Apero spritz, so this was pretty much right up my alley with all the orange bitters.

Eric Rodez Cuvée des Grands Vintages, dégorgée en Janvier 2021 – good acidity and definitely good depth on the palate. My host was happy with it.

2010 Lucien Le Moine Clos de Vougeot – the nose was nice and ripe, with plenty of sweet fruit and leather. Decent acidity on the palate.

2007 BOND Matriarch - surprised that the nose was a bit reductive. Lots of dried herbs and potpourri here. Not as delicious as other bottles opened earlier.

We are so, so grateful that our friends opened up their home to us on this special day, and cooked a vegetarian feast that opened our eyes. I love that I get to learn a little more of the incredibly diverse "Indian" cuisine each time I see them, and we very much treasure our friendship. I look forward to seeing them again soon.