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It has been a long, loooong time since I had the opportunity to open a couple of bottles with the Hairy Chevalier. In fact, I've been trying to do that for most of this year without success... Well, he finally called me over tonight to Caprice Bar, with the aim of testing out a few dishes for the upcoming special game menu. So I brought along a bottle I've been meaning to drink with him for MONTHS, as well as a bottle I thought would go well with game.

1981 Taittinger Comte de Champagne Blanc de Blancs - the nose was really mature and lovely, with marmalade of course, but perhaps also a little apricot. Nice and soft on the palate now after 45 years, but certainly not weak or short. In fact, this had great acidity and very, very long on the finish. Fantastic.

Royale de potimarron et oursin d'Hokkaido, émulsion de oursin et wasabi - ah... The Hairy Chevalier once again adds a touch of wasabi in a sauce with sea urchin.

Below the tuile we had very creamy sea urchin along with refreshing mango. The flavors worked together because of that touch of wasabi, and we also had some pickled myoga (茗荷) to add some crunch and acidity.

Carré de sole de Bretagne, pomme de terre cuite au jus de coquillages, sauce aneth et Champagne - on the side we have potato cooked with shellfish juice, a sauce made with herbs like dill, coriander, and Chardonnay vinegar. There was also some parsley purée. The buckwheat on top of the block added some crunch along with sweetness from the glaze.

I've never seen a "rack of sole" presented like a rack of lamb, but I like it! The thick cut was pretty nice, and the texture was a little bouncy. Nice and kinda juicy, too.

L'emblematique lièvre à la royale - well, I've had the lièvre à la royale from the Hairy Chevalier a few times over the years, including this time last year. He continues to update and improve this dish. We've still got the pear on top - both as fresh chunks and purée - and also white truffle shaved on top. What looks the same as ever is that thick sauce made with the blood and guts of the wild hare, looking like chocolate and gleaming beautifully under the (admittedly dim) lights at the bar.

The loin of the hare is still partnered with foie gras, but I definitely noticed that the sauce was sweeter and more fruity this year, because the Hairy Chevalier added more vinegar gave it a lighter touch. And it is this version of the sauce that turned out to be a perfect match for the Sine Qua Non syrah I brought. Both the Hairy Chevalier and I were so, so happy with the pairing. In fact, Victor thought so, too.

2003 Sine Qua Non Papa - served without decanting 1½ hours after opening. The nose was showing beautifully with some exotic spices, potpourri, and lots of dark fruits. Starting to resemble a Côte-Rôtie, with eucalyptus, candy, and a little Christmas pine. This was so complex, so balanced, and soooo nice.

Soufflé à la citrouille et crème glacée au safran - a new soufflé, with pumpkin flavor for the season. Nice with some white truffle shaved on top.

The ice cream was made with Iranian saffron. Together with the soufflé, I'm guessing this makes "pumpkin spice"...

Meanwhile, Brownpaperbagged has put some caramelized pumpkin seeds inside to add both flavors and crunch.

This was a fun night, testing out a bunch of new dishes before they are released to the public. I was really happy that both bottles drank well, and it's always nice to be able to share goodies with one's friends. Victor also showed me the first product from their new project, which looks like it will be very interesting.

Best of all, the Hairy Chevalier and I planned the menu for my coming visit next week with friends from out of town, matching dishes with the wines I'm planning on bringing. This will be REAL fun.